I'm having an issue with this da9. So here's what it is. It's a 91 integra da9 with a b18b1. BC cams and a skunk2 intake manifold also has an aftermarket fuel rail in which I had to take the injector plugs from another vehicle and splice them in. It has an obd0 ecu I think. It has the check light built into it. Anyways the issue I'm having is I have a cel, that doesn't bother me as much as the fact that when I jump the ecu service pin I don't see any flashes. It flashes once when I first turn the key and that's it. It will start and run fine when cold but once it's warmed up it stalls out. It idles around 500. If that. I'm guessing is the timing I had the distributor advanced when I did the timing belt and I can't get any more ignition timing out of it. So I think I can fix that. Anybody know an easy way to lock the cams without a cam locker? Also it bogs more when jumping the ecu than when not jumping it. The tps and the map are already taken care of too. Just installed a new radiator and coolant hoses too, could have an air pocket atm do have a slight idle surge. Not to concerned with that. Mainly worried about the ecu not giving any codes but the cel still coming on, and the issue where it bogs and stalls after warmed up. Pretty sure it's a timing issue but why doesn't my ecu give me any codes? Are the Injectors I am using causing issues? Should I try to convert to obd1 or 2? Any help or advice with the build is much appreciated. I'm new to the b series so take it easy on me.

This is before the skunk2 im swap

This is after. Ill upload better pics tomorrow. Any tips to make this thing run better are much appreciated. This isn't the most recent pic I'll post more maybe upload a video

 

WHY do you think that a stock OBD-0 ECU will run a modified engine ? Second, what injectors are you using ? If you are using the OBD-1 fuel injectors (and this is why you swapped injector clips), did you also remove the fuel injector resistor box and re-wire the clip ?

 

I used the injector plugs off my other b18b1 civic the injectors and fuel rail are aftermarketpossibly skunk 2 I'll post pics tomorrow, and I didn't mess with the resistor box at all. What should I do with it? What do you mean rewire the clip? I had a feeling I would need to swap to obd1 just wasn't sure if I could make it work with the obd0 temporarily till I can afford the rest.

 

The programming in the OBD-0 ECU is different than the OBD-1 ECU because the fuel injectors work differently... but you can get away with it for a short time if necessary. The biggest difference in fuel injector performance will be at idle and light throttle... medium to full throttle will be pretty close. To make your OBD-1 fuel injectors work, you will need to get rid of the injector resistor box. To do this, unplug it and remove it from the car. Then, cut the wiring plug off of the resistor box as close to the box as you can. Strip back the insulation on all five wires (four black wires and one red wire) about a half inch, and then twist ALL FIVE wires together (I use a large crimp connector and place all five wires into the hole together and crimp it), and finally plug this back into the engine harness. Crank it up.