K20 swap
Hey all, so I have a 97 accord automatic with f22b, got the car for steal of deal low low kms almost immaculate body sat for 7yrs. Long story short I have a 06 sI civic with k20z3 motor, so I know I can do the swap but never have done a automatic to manual, so just wondering if anyone has tackled this job on here.
Unless things have changed in the last couple years, It's not possible to swap a K20 into the Accord chassis. You need a full K24 swap, or at least to use a K24 block with a K20 head. It's also a huge and expensive undertaking because the chassis is much more niche than Civics.
I hope it is possible, need to do more research now, I got to excited and just bought a k20z3 because we'll, it was dirt cheap and low km.... Worst case sell it and buy a k24 ooooof.
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Tampa, FL, USA or Somewhere in the Caribbean
Depends how you define best, but K20A (from the Type-R's and Euro R) is the best of the K20's . The Z is basically second best since it takes some of the K20A parts and mixes it with K20A2 parts.
My take is that the K20Zx is more than powerful enough for the accord, IF you are willing to go through the trouble of swapping it over. K24 would be nice, but i wouldn't sell what you already have for another.
Re K20 vs K24, it is a personal preference thing, I prefer K20 since I love the super high redline (8400rpm on my K20A) but i can understand why people go K24 for the extra torque.
My take is that the K20Zx is more than powerful enough for the accord, IF you are willing to go through the trouble of swapping it over. K24 would be nice, but i wouldn't sell what you already have for another.
Re K20 vs K24, it is a personal preference thing, I prefer K20 since I love the super high redline (8400rpm on my K20A) but i can understand why people go K24 for the extra torque.
Thanks for that info, the higher top end is exactly why I wanted the k20z3, from my understanding the bottom end of motor is really the only difference with the k24 being square, right now just trying to find out for sure the mounting holes are identical on both engines if so I won't have any problem using the k24 mounts I've purchased, if not I'll have to get some custom fabbed.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 67
From: Tampa, FL, USA or Somewhere in the Caribbean
Fab work ins't cheap in the USA if I recall. May well be cheaper to buy a k24 block for $400 or $500 than to custom fab mounts to get the k20 block to work, but you'd have to work that out. I haven't owned a vehicle in the US in about a decade now
Either way, will be an upgrade on the F series that is in there.
Either way, will be an upgrade on the F series that is in there.
In Canada, luckily I don't have to pay for fab work,it's nice have Buddy's in trades. My limit is 20k for this build was qouted 10 for professional installation and tune but figure I can just do it myself and spend the money on upgrades then just pay for tune when it's all together.
All the bolt holes on the blocks are identical if the mounts are for the same generation of engine. The Z and W are the newer gen with mount locations different from the A stuff. The timing covers are completely different between the two. But check with the mount manufacturer they sometimes want you to use a specific honda mount on the timing cover to match their mount.
The deck height on the K24 is 13mm taller than the K20 for the longer stroke so the head sits 13mm higher. A few of the mount kits out there lower the engine by 13mm and call them K24 mounts.
Transmissions are also different in how they mount based on what chassis the transmission is from.
The deck height on the K24 is 13mm taller than the K20 for the longer stroke so the head sits 13mm higher. A few of the mount kits out there lower the engine by 13mm and call them K24 mounts.
Transmissions are also different in how they mount based on what chassis the transmission is from.
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