Premature, but I'm trying to start loosely planning an AWD conversion possibly for next year or early 2024. Once I've ironed out my build in FWD and it's proven reliable there, I'd like this to be "stage 2". Possibly a bigger block & turbo too...

My main goals are to have the "easiest" install possible and to retain as much OEM structure as possible, most importantly I'd like to be able to retain my OEM fuel tank, or at least have an aftermarket fuel cell I can strap into the OEM location.

Vague parts list (Updated based on discussion below):
S1Built/Hub City AWD Kit
S1Built CRV Differential W/ Locking Plates
S1Built Viscous Coupler Drive Shaft
B-Series CRV Trans, Insane Shafts AWD axles
SpeedFactory FWD2AWD Shift Fork Conversion
Hasport AWD Mount Kit
KTuned AWD Shifter & Cables

I'm leaning towards the S1Built "Delta 7" kit as I've seen several videos of people installing S1Built kits on YouTube, and it seems like a well designed setup. The S1Built kit also comes with billet fork adapters for coilovers, which aren't included in the Humble or FCS kit. The FCS kit includes some extras like brake components and toe links.

I'll most likely also invest in the Drag Cartel transfer case, which will be somewhat overkill for my peak power goals (400-450) but I'd rather not have to worry about grenading a case.

Let me know any thoughts - I can of course email these companies questions and get answers which I'll eventually do when I'm ready to order, but would rather have the cash together and more plans solidified before bothering them.

Also, does anyone know what wagovan diffs are selling for now? Or what a fair asking price is?... Scared to ask really.

 

I would say go with Hub City Performance, their kit bolts right up and is an easy install. Their control arms are offset so you don't need to run any different shock forks. I've seen videos of people using the FCS stuff that literally bent, those guys ended up switching to HCP's stuff.

As far as Wagon Diffs and the Viscous I would expect to see prices anywhere from 2000-3500.

 

"Prices anywhere from 2000-3500"
OOF

I'll write off FCS from my list of considerations, thank you for the input.

Any thoughts on how a CRV differential that's been "locked" would compare to a Wagovan RT4WD? That would be a lot cheaper, and probably fine as far as power goals are concerned - just no idea how it would compare to a true real time diff.
May be something worth asking S1Built about.

https://www.s1built.com/products/crv...pr_seq=uniform
https://akdbuiltperformance.com/rtaw...-block-plates/

Maybe paired with something like this...? (Dual Pump Quick Spool)
https://akdbuiltperformance.com/akdb...l-system-dpqs/

I'll be doing more research as I find time, just bouncing ideas for now and getting a gameplan. The AKD Clutch block plates claim to 100% lock the diff, so if those work with the CRV diff that may be the best way to go.

Edit: I guess one downside would be tight turns in parking lots/driveways, I'm assuming pinning or otherwise locking the rear diff in an AWD setup like this would result in the same behavior seen when welding a RWD diff. Does that sound right? Does the Wago RT4WD diff act more like an "LSD" where it would behave better at low speeds and tight turns?

 

Do NOT order from AKD, that is a scam. Most people that don’t do the wagon diff will get the CRV diff with locking plates that you can get from s1 built. You can get the Freelander viscous and driveshaft which is the cheaper way to replicate the wagon setup, lots of people do this.

 

Damn thanks for the heads up about AKD.

That sounds ideal to me then, unless there's some major drawback to that versus the wago diff as drivability/performance goes. I know the wago diff holds a lot of power, and I don't ever really want to worry about things breaking. Think the CRV diff would be comfortable at ~450?

 

I think it’s smart what you’re doing by gathering information and researching before you decide which parts to buy. Even though you won’t be installing until 2023 or 2024, it’s good to know of a plan ahead of time. You don’t want to have to research, buy parts, and install parts at the same time.
I did my researching and buying of parts at the same time with my D series build, and it slowed things up. I should have done my head stud Time-Sert install before sleeves, so it’s just a reminder to have a plan before buying/installing parts.
You can contact those companies ahead of time, because that’s what they do, and even if you decide not to go through them, then at least you can move forward.
You won’t want to buy some parts and then resell them if you decide you don’t need them any more.
And you can be on the look out for the Wagon differential you need ahead of time, to know the market.

 

Yeah - I did all my research with the whole build before buying anything, but a lot of the actual purchasing has happened concurrently with me trying to install and get things done. This time around, I want to physically have all the parts piled up ready to go before taking anything OFF the car for the swap.

One slightly unfortunate thing is this is definitely going to push me to want to upgrade to a bigger block and either a 2867 or 3071, so that'll be more $$$ down the road - That could even be "stage 3" since the AWD setup would have no problem being installed on the B16. I'll probably just keep my B16 block as a backup assuming everything goes as planned.

 

Yeah, a lot of guys use the CRV diff in combination with the locking plates and Freelander Viscous setup and it can handle the power you are after.


https://www.s1built.com/products/cus...iscous-coupler

 

Awesome! Looks like I'll make plans then to get either the S1Built or Hub City kit, and then the S1 diff and viscous to go with it.

Guess I'll have to eat the cost of a DC transfer case but oh well. I'll make a proper parts list a bit later, looking forward to this now for next year. It'll be nice to have some fun with FWD first though.

 

For the transfer case - Would upgrading to just the DragCartel cover suffice, or should I upgrade the gear inside as well? I know at a minimum the OEM case is prone to breaking under extra power/abuse, I'm not sure about the gear itself though.

 

Hub City Performance is what the fastest awd cars are running. Their kit also has provisions for a rear sway bar if you want one. Power factory tuning makes a really good kit as well.

 

"Their kit also has provisions for a rear sway"
Oh, that is interesting. First I've heard of Power Factory, I'll check them out.

 

Being able to run a rear sway bar is a selling point for me, along with the number of really fast cars running hub city.
PFT makes some pretty good stuff.

Apparently I can’t copy and paste a link on my phone.

 

Yeah I'm starting to feel more confident in my parts list. I think I'll use the HCP trailing arm/mount kit, and then the S1 CRV differential and driveshaft.

Thank you both for the ideas and input!

 

Just an FYI: I originally bought the S1 CRV diff with locking plates installed and after shipping it was like $700 bucks. I suggest buying a CRV diff from a junkyard because I had found a really clean one from LKQ for $100 bucks and the locking plates are like $150. You can install the locking plates easily on your own in like an hour LOL and save some money.

 

I'll consider that, thank you.

 

You’re welcome. I’m a LONG way from this but I plan on being awd at some point down the road.

 

In my knowledge the best Honda/Acura AWD conversion kit is by Power Factory tuning they have great selections and high quality standards and great durability and power capabilities