Hey guys, 1st post here. Need some answers. Bought an 08 accord 2.4L and the guy said the car ran poorly, took it to the shop, and they said timing chain stretch. It ended up dying on their lot and wouldn't start. He towed it home and attempted to do the job himself. It said for 4 years after he opened it up!
He said the timing chain was still attached when he got it home and he gave up when he realized the oil pan has to be dropped for the lower chain and guides/tensioner. I trust his word, hes a co worker and a good guy.
I'm a mechanic by trade, but not much work on Hondas, mostly fleet ford's. Anyhow, I pulled the cams off to make sure valves were all up. All the rockers and valves appear to be level. I can only rotate the crank about 345-350 degrees and it stops. Won't go further and I'm not trying to force it I know these are interference engines.
I put a long 1/4" extension down the spark plug holes and I can see the pistons come up and go down past their TDC points, it just wont go all the way are 360. Kinda odd to me they can come up and roll over but not keep going. Is there something on these K engines that is stopping this from rotating completely or do I have a bent valve.
if anyone is curious I got the car for $300 and it's in good shape other than the mechanical issue, it's a fully loaded EX-L model.

Thanks everyone!

 

How are you a mechanic by trade and seriously asking this question? Get your borescope out and look.

 

You’re probably gonna have to pull the head to look or as already suggested, break out the borescope and look.

 

Don't own a bore scope personally and I can't borrow from the shop. That's why I asked on here. The car is at my house. Still the thing that I don't get is the pistons go up to TDC and back down then stop. If it was a valve it wouldn't make it past TDC on all 4 pistons. Didn't know if I was missing something on this particular engine. Maybe it's something with the balance shaft chain I'm not sure I haven't dropped the pan and lower chain set.

 

$70 for a decent borescope with decent display from Amazon. Haven't used it myself but I plan on getting it.

https://a.co/d/aMkdbc2

 

So what you are saying is that you CAN get the crank gear (if the timing cover is off) or the crank pulley (if the timing cover is still installed) to align with the TDC marks on the block or timing cover (respectively) sometimes ??? If I understand your process, here is what is actually happening. You stated that you removed the timing chain, so the cams are no longer moving with the crankshaft. The definition of an "Interference Engine" means that when valves stop moving, pistons WILL make contact with valves. There is NO point in a camshafts positioning where all valves are closed... so with the camshafts staying in one place, and the crankshaft being turned, you will either make piston-to-valve contact very close to TDC on the crank pulley (with piston 1 and 4 close to the top) or nearly 180' away from TDC (with piston 2 and 3 close to the top). So, you may be getting the crankshaft CLOSE to TDC, but not actually getting there.

 

The previous owner removed the timing chain and tensioner/guides but left the lower chain that goes to the oil pump.
I removed both cams off the head to make sure the valves were completely closed before i rotated the crank. Spsrk plugs and fuel injectors are out of the head to allow the pistons to move freely without compression.
I'm going to try an air leak down test today and see if I get any air coming out the intake or exhaust before I pull the head. If the head is toast, I may end up swapping a better motor in this car. Something off the JDM market and get a good tune. There sure is a ton of room behind the head for a nice snail!

 

Yeah, if the cams are out and all valves are closed, then something is bad wrong. Pulling the intake and exhaust manifolds will allow you to peek in each runner and see if any valves are stuck open... and if not, you have something making contact in the rotating assembly. Deeper inspection is required.

 

I got the oil pan off and removed lower chain set to free that up incase it was a locked up pump and the pump spins easily, the rotsting assembly having same issue. Going to drain the coolant and prepare for a head job... and not the one I'd like to have!

 

 

Well i popped the head off and boy was it nasty in there! It had to be running like chit for awhile. Looks like several bent exhaist valves and theyre burnt up pretty good. It also sat for 3 years in Missouri humidity so it's gummy.

 

I wire wheeled the pistons while they were TDC and cleaned them up good. They don't have any dings or chips/cracks so I think it's salvageable.
bought a new head off the bay from a 2012 TSX that looks very low mileage and decently maintained. Will run a conpression test after its back together and hope the rings are good. The walls arent bad, just a little glazed. Debating on trying a scotch brite roughing of the walls or just run it as is.

 

Some pics of the new head. It's been leakdown tested and all is good.