I have a stock internals D16Y8 (only has whale private and a 4-2-1 eBay header) with an auto trans, my wife's car and will be changing the head gasket. I am reluctant to use the same bolts, they are cheap enough to just buy new, but I do know that studs work better and place less stress on should it be switched out again, I am obviously not planning on opening up the motor many times but like the convenience and wanted to put in head studs, but since it is a stock engine and will not be modified internally whatsoever I find no need for ARP so I wanted to buy some budget head studs, I am sure that they will at least hold up the same as stock, maybe a little more, but wanted a few opinions regarding this.

I have no need nor the desire to even remotely think about ARP, I know they are the best choice, but I am also honest and say it is not needed. I see this as a little upgrade over stock (budget studs) with a plan of no more that half of what an ARP set costs. The most mods the car will see is most likely an auto to manual swap and maybe a new exhaust (header, pipe and catback). My wife by no means tracks it or races it or anything like that, she basically daily drives it and aesthetically modifies it to her liking, but I do want the car to be reliable. While I am at this I am also changing the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, seals, gaskets and all those goodies. If anyone also has any other pointer here on what to check or change out while I disassemble the engine let me now.

 

you forgot to mention the HEADGASKET. If you're going to be doing all this, at least buy all GENUINE HONDA parts. If you search, you can find them for the same price as aftermarket/auto parts store items.

As for the headstuds, they can be purchased from eBay starting around $55.
Up to you. No one is forcing you to buy the BETTER PRODUCT (ARP). If they hold up without issue, great for you. If they fail and the head lifts, no excuses because you wanted to save a few bucks by cheaping out.

 

Why I completely understand you, it is not called cheaping out. I can buy a bolt 10 times better than an OEM one, but if it does not say ARP then its cheap? That is not how things work. I am a person who buys something because it is good or better than OEM, but you would be surprised how that sometimes has nothing to do with brands,
I can also make the distinction about the use I give my cars and know when I do not need high-priced brand name part or when a no-name brand part will suffice. Even if a head stud kit comes from eBay o RockAuto or any store of your liking, if its alloy composition gives it a strength equal or superior than an OEM bolt, it will behave equal or better than an OEM bolt. It is a 100% stock engine with OEM bolts and if 50 buck studs are equal or better than OEM bolts, then it will function equally or better.
I am looking for equal or better, not over the top 50psi capable head studs, I simply do not need them nor will ever need them. Unlike my modified Si, I do have ARP studs, but I know the use I give my car and the future mods it will install, I didn't cheap out and it has them. I am not going to buy the most expensive part just because it exists, I am rational and buy what I need

 

Here's something simple for you, your block will be left sock so get a oem head gasket and re-use your old bolts. I know it may sound crazy but it is totally possible and I can say with 99% confidence you will have zero issues if it has been put back together and torqued correctly. Your simply just tightening to a certain ft lb and it's unlikely the honda head bolt is going to break, strip or come loose if done right. Been done many times by others and myself personally with zero problems.

 

Oem head gasket, check both head and block for straightness, reuse bolts.