hello honda fam !
I have a 1995 Honda Accord 4 Cyl ( made in Japan) ABS light on.
When i first bought it at the auction, before starting the car ( key at position 2) i would hear a whining noise but i dont hear that anymore. the light just stays on.
where do i go about finding the code for ABS?
is the ABS connector somewhere else? i dont see anything behind the ash-try. do i short the blue connector behind the glove box?
i know this is OBD1 and not OB2...plz advise on how to go about finding the ABS code and what could be wrong with this. i hope this is something minor and i can fix myself.
thank you

 

any advice please?

 

Hey man, I’m new as well! I had the same problem with my homies car, and it turns out that you need one of those big beefy expensive computers to have access to the ABS. In his case it was the ABS module that went out. We tried unplugging his car over night and it did the trick for about a month, then it came back on and we couldn’t get rid of it. He ended up sending it to this site he found on google and payed like $200 and they tore it apart and managed to fix wherever the short was. Not sure if this will work for you, but if I were you I’d take it to a shop and tell them that you JUST WANT THE CODE READ. Don’t let them sell you any parts or services or nothin. I don’t remember exactly but I’m pretty sure my homie handed the guy a $20 and asked him to plug it up, and within a minute he was able to tell us that the module was fried and would respond to his computer. Hope this helps

 

yeah i know there is a way to read the abs code.
Im not sure if the glove box connector will tell me about abs code or is it somewhere else i need to short for abs

 

It's most likely the accumulator that has gone bad. Common issue on 5th gen Accords. You can read the ABS codes using the same procedure as reading the CEL codes (two pin blue connector behind the glove box)

 

i will read the code today now that you have confirmed it .
lets hope its a not something major . in case if it is accumulatior.how hard is it to change? can a DIY noob like me do this?

 

Accumulator. It's possible to change (I've done it before) but the parts are really expensive. I honestly just took out the relay so I wouldn't have to listen to the accumulator try and build pressure every time I started my car. Here's a DIY I followed when I did it the first time.
Video link:

But it would be best if you first read the codes to see exactly what your problem is.

 

i dont think i even hear the accumulator anymore. i did hear a rrrrrrrrrrr sound in the beginning. i dont hear it anymore. ive had the car for 10 days.....

 

So that probably means it has completely failed. Either way, read the codes and it will tell you what went wrong. Since the 1994 and 1995 Accords are OBD1 you have to do a different procedure than with 1996 and 1997 since those were OBD2. Here's a forum post I found from a quick google search.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-accord-18894/

 

ok so my mechanic buddy took a look and he said he could hear the abs motor make a whining noise when started. we read the code and it was 1.
yes code was 1.
i dont have the funds to get that fix so im looking shorting a connector to make it shut up like this gentleman did here .................

 

The connector he shorted is the one you use to read codes, you can disable the whole system by pulling the relay in the engine bay, however the ABS light will always be on.
It's in the fuse box labeled 1 in this image:

 

there is no way to make it just freaking go away????
oh lord

 

oh wait wait wait
i posted the wrong video
here is the one i originally wanted to post

 

In that video for the Del Sol, they are jumping the connector for the ABS pressure switch; essentially simulating a closed pressure switch by jumping the connector to send a ground signal to the ABS control unit

On a Del Sol, the ABS pressure switch has its own connector and is separate from the ABS modulator unit.

On the Accord, the ABS pressure switch is part of the ABS modulator unit. You could do the similar method by locating and unplugging the orange 2P connector for the pressure switch that has one yellow and one black wire; and jumping the connector.

 

ok ill try that tomorrow morning thank you boss

 

The connector for the pressure switch is C378.

 

i could not find a 2 pin connector with yellow/black wire. am i blind?
do i have to remove the unit?

 

i see 2 connectors.
one with 2 pins white and black
and another connector with a lot of wires.

are you referring to the 2 pin white and black? i know you said yellow black but you think in my cat its white/black?

 

Okay, looks like a lot of work to access the 2P orange connector C378 with the yellow wire and black wire.

The black cover needs to be removed to get to that connector. That connector along with a bunch of other 2P connectors branches off the large orange connector with a lot of wires.

The Accord is not a quick and easy hack like the Del Sol.

This picture I found from an ebay ad for a V6 which is similar: https://www.ebay.com/itm/25557158096...7CMake%3AHonda

 

Another alternative on the hack is jumping the large 12P connector from the wire side. Terminal no. 4 (yellow wire) to no. 11 (black wire). (Terminal no. 4 is below terminal no. 1)

Or just jump terminal no. 4 (yellow wire) to chassis ground.

 

that is a much easier hack..let me try that
ill report back with results..my friend

 

ok so i was able to get the connector off( disconnected) and im about to ask a very stupid question.
please feel free to call me an idiot but...............
the question is...........

in the above picture.....do u cut the wire #4 ( coming from abs modulator) and attach it to ground?

or

am i cutting the wire # 4 that is going into the car's computer and shorting it to ground ( basically cut the #4 wire on the other side of connector that above connector connects to?) i hope my question made sense.....

again thank you so much for your help and support.

 

You're not cutting any wires.

You also did not have to disconnect the connector if you're able to jump the connector from the wire side (from the back of the connector). Essentially, like back probing. There are back probe pins, T-pins, or special jumper wires that can accomplish that.

Since you have the connector disconnected, you can insert one end of a spare piece of wire into the terminal no. 4 cavity (yellow wire) and the other end into terminal no. 11 (black wire). Then reconnect the connector with the jumper inside. Make sure you are inserting the jumper into the correct cavity terminals.

 

ok boss im going to try that today and i will report with results.
thank you so much

 

BOSS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
SENSEI !!!!!!!!!!!!
the light was on and after cracking it stayed on for 1 second and then turned off................BOSS THAT IS AWESOME....
ill take it for a drive but for Now its gone...thank you soooo much !
you are the best
GOD BLESS