2000 Accord two different type of Distributor?
2000 Honda Accord EX 2.3L coupe.
The distributor was leaking. When you buy the re-seal kit you get 2 different type of seal ring for the inside of distributor. On youtube everyone said to just match it with the old one. I replaced it, it was still leaking but not as bad. One month later took the car to the shop for a different issue and I told them to check the distributor. The guy said it needs to be replaced.
Now I am looking to replace it and I don't know which one to buy. Is there a way to find out which one you have or how can you tell the difference.
Also looking to get a used one from the junk yard. My local junk yard has about 10+ Honda accord the last time I went to pick from. Is there a way to test the distributor at the yard?
The distributor was leaking. When you buy the re-seal kit you get 2 different type of seal ring for the inside of distributor. On youtube everyone said to just match it with the old one. I replaced it, it was still leaking but not as bad. One month later took the car to the shop for a different issue and I told them to check the distributor. The guy said it needs to be replaced.
Now I am looking to replace it and I don't know which one to buy. Is there a way to find out which one you have or how can you tell the difference.
Also looking to get a used one from the junk yard. My local junk yard has about 10+ Honda accord the last time I went to pick from. Is there a way to test the distributor at the yard?
Your seal kit should have the cap housing seal and a big o-ring. If yours new one was still leaking then you could put a tiny bit of sealant on the o-ring.. it shouldn't be leaking if you put a new o-ring on.. After removing your distributor, feel around the inside of the bore and make sure its truly round and no gaps between the mating caps and no hardened sealant is deforming your new o-ring causing it to leak. If you do go back to the wreckers, rob the guts out of a couple distributors, it will be helluva a lot cheaper than buying the whole thing. Basically the ignitor and coil is what you want to grab.
You could probably test the coil with a multimeter but not sure about testing the ignitor. For what they would cost would be dirt cheap maybe less than $50 compare to a couple/few hundred for a new unit and it would be smart to have a few backups.
Bring yourself a good socket wrench style Phillips screw driver because those screws inside can be very tight.
You could probably test the coil with a multimeter but not sure about testing the ignitor. For what they would cost would be dirt cheap maybe less than $50 compare to a couple/few hundred for a new unit and it would be smart to have a few backups.
Bring yourself a good socket wrench style Phillips screw driver because those screws inside can be very tight.
VTEC engines will have the Hitachi distributor.
Non-VTEC engines will have the TEC distributor.
https://www.redsautorehab.com/index....dex&cPath=8_28
Verify that the distributor bushing is not worn, if it is the shaft will wobble and the seal will not keep oil from leaking.
Also make sure to clean the shaft of any varnish buildup or that a ridge is not grooved into the shaft which may damage the new seal.
Non-VTEC engines will have the TEC distributor.
https://www.redsautorehab.com/index....dex&cPath=8_28
Verify that the distributor bushing is not worn, if it is the shaft will wobble and the seal will not keep oil from leaking.
Also make sure to clean the shaft of any varnish buildup or that a ridge is not grooved into the shaft which may damage the new seal.
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