Hello,
My friend is doing a timing belt replacement job for my 2002 accord. I got Aisin timing belt kit, and I need to buy other gaskets and seals.
First of all, do I want to buy Honda OEM for these? They add up quickly.
Second, what else do I need to do? I listed a lot here after researching. Valve cover gasket is the first one. OK, this seems to be very important, so I am willing to pay $61. Then what about others? Do they need to be OEM?
PCV valve costs $28!
[Addition: It has 120K miles]

SKU: 12030-P0A-000
Other Names: Gasket Set VALVE COVE GASKET SET
https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...er-12030p0a000
$61.80

SKU: 17139-PK1-000
Other Names: Grommet PCV Valve
$3

SKU: 17130-PK1-003
Other Names: Valve Assembly PCV
$28


SKU: 91213-PT0-003 Other Names: Oil Seal (28X42X8)
This is Camshaft seal. $8.24

SKU: 91214-PLE-003 Other Names: Oil Seal (80X100X10)
This is Crankshaft seal. $23.88

SKU: 91233-PT0-003 Other Names: Oil Seal (27X40X8)
This is Balance shaft seal. $9.67

Not sure if I need these below:
SKU: 15114-PT0-003 Other Names: Gasket B Oil Pump
$6.73
SKU: 15113-PT0-003 Other Names: Gasket A Oil Pump
$4.61

Thank you very much!

 

The only other seal besides the valve cover I would change while doing the belt job would be the crankshaft seal. You can test your pcv valve by giving it a shake.. if it rattles and is not stuck it should be fine. The rest you don't really need to do unless the motor has really high mileage or is leaking but you'd find that out once it's apart.

 

Don't forget the spark plug tube seals and grommets under the valve cover nuts.

 

These often come in a kit with the valve cover gasket for a lot less if you decide to note go genuine Honda. My take is, if doing the labour yourself, then get a good aftermarket like felpro.

If you paying someone to do the labour, just get the genuine and get it done.

 

Thank you. This car has only 120K miles, so I am hoping that it would go another $120K without any leakage. I will buy OEM valve gasket cover and Crank shaft seal. That is $85! I want OEM, right?

 

Thank you. I think what you mentioned is included in the valve cover gasket kits.

 

Valve cover gasket is fairly easy to change yourself so you don't NEED to go genuine.

Crankshaft seals I tend to go genuine since they are a complete pain to change. Front is fairly accessible, but the rear crankshaft seal means either removal of the engine or transmission. So you won't go chasing the rear crank seal unless you have some sort of obvious leak (with that one, you'd know)

 

Both Beck Arnley and Felpro make good quality parts vs oem. For what it is, I would go oem on the front crank seal and either Beck Arnley or Felpro for the valve cover. Just stress to your friend when changing the crank seal, only pry the seal out from its outer race, not the inner on the crank shaft itself. The slightest scratch on the crank will ruin your day.

 

I am paying my friend, but it is like doing it together (myself as an assistant. I can only change fluids and brake pads.) What are the great aftermarket vendor for seals and gaskets? Only FelPro?
I found one in RockAuto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...386200&pt=5604 I don't know what is included.

Here is FelPro Valve cover gasket for $18. A lot less than OEM: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=10710&jsn=969

Are these all I want? Thank you so much!

 

I think you are saying pry it toward the outer edge of the seal, not toward the shaft. Good information. Thank you.
OK. I will go OEM crankshat seal. No need to change camshaft seal, PCV grommet, balance shaft seal, oil pump gaskets?

One last thing. I changed my coolant 3 years ago. With covid, little driven. Can I reuse it? I think I just buy another gallon and put some addition from the existing portion. With 1 gallon, it is at the lowest line on the reservoir. Is it a bad move?
Thank you!

 

Your coolant will be fine.. if it looks fairly clean and not cloudy/ discolored just use it since it hasn't been run much. The levelness will change as it heats so just add accordingly after it has run once through a heat cycle. (Top it up later)
And also was just meaning - don't use the crank as a leverage point to pry the seal out. You can pierce it with a hook pick and pull it out but it might tear or just pry it from its outside edge out of the housing it's pressed in...

 

I went to a dealership, and got a gallon. I guess I can use the new and keep the current one for later if the level goes down. Not worth returning... Thank you!
If there is no gasket to buy, then I will place an order at Amazon. Really appreciate your help.

 

When you have the valve cover off, it is the perfect time to change the PCV valve grommet. Those grometts are fairly cheap , i used to get them for $3 or something crazy. Changing PCV valve is super easy on these engines, so you can always test it, or just change it since it is so cheap

Re the fel-pro valve cover gasket, there is a set on rockauto that comes with the spark plug tube seals which tend to fail fairly often on these cars. Beck/arnley is fine as well as was mentioned

With rockauto, google 5% discount code for it, they are always applicable, and try to add items to your cart that ship from the same warehouse with rockauto. Worth adding in a tube of RTV silicone if you don't already have since rockauto is definitely going to be cheaper than your local store. Once again, try to get it from the same warehouse in the cart

Finally, having the valve cover off is the PERFECT time to check the valve clearances. Easy to do from youtube videos. Just get a feeler gauge and get it done

Re coolant, def can reuse once it is looking good and you have no major rust/oxidation issues happening in the radiator etc.

This will be a nice learning experience for you. The F series engine is very easy to work on and things are generally placed logically etc. It should be nice to raise your confidence level and allow you to level up your mech skills.

 

If your into changing seals for this project, the o-ring on the distributor is notorious for leaking, honda uses a odd size I can never find locally at stores but if you have a metric o-ring kit or find one locally for cheap, a 22mm ID, 3.5mm thick one will go on and seal perfectly aswell (slight stretch getting on). Just scribe/draw a fine line straight across the top distributor body mount to head mount before removal for easy reinstalling.

 

Thanks again. The info here in this thread is gold to me!
As for valve cover gasket and valve clearance, Is it best to do them at the same time as the timing belt replacement? I started to think that it may be better to do it LATER so that you can isolate problems just in case. Yes, if everything goes well, and you are very experienced, all at the same time is the best. No doubt about it. Or once you open the valve cover, no other choice but to replace the gasket then?

A couple of people suggested that I go OEM for crankshaft seal. Since I am paying $10 for shipping alone, is there any other gasket (or any other thing) that I would go OEM?

 

Is this what you are talking about? https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...ng-30110pc6005 It does not have the dimension, so I looked it up by the part# in RockAuto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...2973096&jsn=16 It says ID = 25mm.
I supoose that in order to get to it, you have to open the valve cover, right?

 

You can order it if you want but may just be cheaper to get the one I stated at a auto parts store.
The 3.5mm thins out to the perfect size when you stretch the 22mm to fit on the 25mm shaft but it's simple and doesn't effect its sealing and it's not going to break...
All that's needed to do is mark the distributor position, un bolt the 3 - 12mm bolts and pull the distributor off the head. It will only go back in one way as the tab that locks into the end of the cam is offset from center. Align the marked lines and bolt it in and timing will not change so your gold. Super simple.
​One part that kind of should be changed while the timing belt is off is your water pump. Would suck to have to pull the belt again...
There's no other seals you really need to change as they don't tend to leak often other than the oil pan gasket..

 

People here recommended that I go OEM for crankshaft seal, so it is not a big deal to order distributor o-ring together anyway. I just would like to know what other gaskets are best to change. After watching Youtube, I am not going to do oil pan gasket replacement. A lot of things need to come off to get to it... Thank you.

 

I was about to place an OEM order online from https://www.hondapartsonline.net/. They charge $22 just to ship $24 crankshaft seal...

Is there any other site that you recommend? Is this just as good: https://honda.oempartsonline.com/
It charges $3.70 for shipping.

 

It would be a no brainer to go for the cheaper shipping as long as your getting the same oem part.

 

That is true. Of course my question is whether https://honda.oempartsonline.com is a reputable shop or not. Or is https://www.hondapartsonline.net/.the only one that we can really trust?

 

I've got all my parts in.
-Crank shaft seal
-Camshaft seal
-Balance shaft seal

When I put these on, do I put some grease (then what kind?) or do I lubricate with engine oil? I am ready to do it this weekend, so I want to make sure I have everything.

I went to a library and looked at online car repair manual. One of the first things is to remove the dipstick holder, and it said replace o-ring... I don't have any other o-rings. Am I OK? Is there any other o-rings or seals to be replaced?

 

My friend cannot help me out this weekend nor next...
I started to watch a couple of youtube videos. Is it a bad idea to do it myself, a complete beginner? I printed out the instruction from FAQ section as well, and started to think "Hmm. I might be able to do it by myself." Maybe all I need is the proper tools and some determination.
Somebody please stop me, or encourage me. If I miss something, will I damage something crucial?

Questions:
How do you keep all the bolts that you removed and organize? How do you remember which to go where?
Is there a way to save your back from breaking? I have a slightly bad back.

 

No, DO NOT put any oil/grease on the seals.

 

OK. Thank you. No grease or oil on seals.