So I have entirely rebuilt the engine (d15b2) all stock except the exhaust manifold. Has been running great since the rebuild except in my last road trip SLC to LA (where I am currently.)
I had what felt like fuel cutting happen to me 4 hours in to the road trip at high rpm but still drive super well if I just cruised at 75.
when I got here the underside of my dizzy had oil on it and I found d that my o ring in the dizzy was bad so I pulled it off replaced the o-ring as well as the seal deeper into the dizzy. When I bolted everything back up and I let the car idle for a few minutes it started flashing code 4. So I checked all my wires and even re-wired the crank angle sensor as well as the TDC sensor with new wires. Didn’t work sometimes after this point it would flash code 4 or 8 if not both. So I put the wiring back to how it was, put in a new dizzy and started just getting code 4. Require + new dizzy was giving me just code 8 so i checked continuity and sometimes I would have it and other times I wouldn’t. Not stoked on my multi meter so I’m gonna get a new one. I just swapped my ecu for a brand new one + new wires + new dizzy and now I just get code 8. Went back to stock wires and original dizzy with new ecu and now the car won’t start. My compression is 170-175-176-170 so I don’t think my timing is off so bad that my car won’t run. It was literally running beautifully before I swapped the seals in the original dizzy. What the F is going on???? I could really use some help in this

 

What brand distributor did you go with? I've had bad luck with off brands failing quickly or being bad right out of the box. I have had good luck with Duralast Gold brand (from AutoZone - also has a lifetime warranty).

 

I’m not sure I got for 40 dollars from someone on Facebook marketplace. But he gave me his old one as wel and I have my original that was working until replacing the seals.

 

If you replaced the inner seal you probably didn't align the two sensors correctly

 

I pulled my old one back off and the sensor nearest the bottom magnet had a broken wire on it so you’re not wrong. But I tried another oem used distributor and a new distributor and they were throwing the same codes. I’m gonna set the timing today since I knew I was off a little bit and maybe the nee dizzy’s sensors are just really sensitive?

 

If I am still getting the code after setting the timing I’m gonna buy a duralast dizzy from autozone

 

then maybe you have a short on the engine harness side.

 

UPDATE:
I got the car running super well. Went through and did the timing and now have compression of 205-210-205-200. So I’m thinking my timing is bang on right? I drive the car an hour and at idle is better than I’ve ever felt and even revs smooth until it I go over what what feels like 3k rpm. If I reset my ecu there is no cel but as soon as I rev past 3k the cel shows up and runs out of time above 3k rpm. I’ve tried 2 new dizzys and 1 old pulled from a donor car.

could it be bad string of luck with dizzys?

could a wire have been jostled?

why only after 3k is there issue?

If there is anyone in riverside area I would love and pay for help. The car can drive. It’s just super super slow!