04 accord parasitic drain
OK - read everything at https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...y-drain-61105/ , - - have eis 395 amp probe etc; have Fluke 88 DMM - narrowed the drain to underhood fuse 15 as above & then narrowed to inside fuse #7 - about 150mA drain above the "normal' 50-or-so" which my CD manual says is for door MICU, Combo switch ICU & Gauge ICU & Immobilizer - do not have a Nav system
all the door locks work & the remote works - & individually working the ***** causes only a momentary amp increase & then stabilizes
1. is there a way to individually isolate/test each door lock switch without removing all the door panels? (apparently not) - and would they all work normally if one of 'em was causing the drain?
2. what else could be a likely cause in the other above control units??
problem began about 2 months ago
solved maybe -
1. found DTC code b1278 "headlight switch ON" - (in Control Unit 70) cleared it & it did not return - Yet
- there are a few posts elsewhere about this code which one can find via google
2. ALSO - after much other diagnostics - found that the NEW Interstate 51R battery from COSTCO was not up to spec - advertised 650 CA 500 CCA - would only do 450 CA on Load Test , so it just didn't have the reserve to stay at 12.6v + under "normal' draw - replaced it with a Walmart Grp 59 600CCA & have had no problems in last 2 weeks; the headlight switch problem (that went away on it's own) was also a factor
all the door locks work & the remote works - & individually working the ***** causes only a momentary amp increase & then stabilizes
1. is there a way to individually isolate/test each door lock switch without removing all the door panels? (apparently not) - and would they all work normally if one of 'em was causing the drain?
2. what else could be a likely cause in the other above control units??
problem began about 2 months ago
solved maybe -
1. found DTC code b1278 "headlight switch ON" - (in Control Unit 70) cleared it & it did not return - Yet
- there are a few posts elsewhere about this code which one can find via google
2. ALSO - after much other diagnostics - found that the NEW Interstate 51R battery from COSTCO was not up to spec - advertised 650 CA 500 CCA - would only do 450 CA on Load Test , so it just didn't have the reserve to stay at 12.6v + under "normal' draw - replaced it with a Walmart Grp 59 600CCA & have had no problems in last 2 weeks; the headlight switch problem (that went away on it's own) was also a factor
Last edited by emoze; Apr 29, 2022 at 09:52 AM. Reason: solved maybe
update - - maybe this will help somebody
- after the battery replacement noted below , there was still some slow draw over several days, the bigger better battery just tolerated it longer - so 2 weeks ago i decided to disconnect the hood switch since when the hood is up, it sends a constant signal to keep the MICU awake which fools the amp-draw readings we want to isolate - and other posts say to force the latch down to halt that during drain diagnostics (have you ever tried that - it's not easily done) - on testing that now interrupted circuit, i found that cheapie plastic hood switch did not always open & close the circuit as it should - so now it is permanently disconnected - AND NO MORE DRAIN! -
- after the battery replacement noted below , there was still some slow draw over several days, the bigger better battery just tolerated it longer - so 2 weeks ago i decided to disconnect the hood switch since when the hood is up, it sends a constant signal to keep the MICU awake which fools the amp-draw readings we want to isolate - and other posts say to force the latch down to halt that during drain diagnostics (have you ever tried that - it's not easily done) - on testing that now interrupted circuit, i found that cheapie plastic hood switch did not always open & close the circuit as it should - so now it is permanently disconnected - AND NO MORE DRAIN! -
OK - read everything at https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...y-drain-61105/ , - - have eis 395 amp probe etc; have Fluke 88 DMM - narrowed the drain to underhood fuse 15 as above & then narrowed to inside fuse #7 - about 150mA drain above the "normal' 50-or-so" which my CD manual says is for door MICU, Combo switch ICU & Gauge ICU & Immobilizer - do not have a Nav system
all the door locks work & the remote works - & individually working the ***** causes only a momentary amp increase & then stabilizes
1. is there a way to individually isolate/test each door lock switch without removing all the door panels? (apparently not) - and would they all work normally if one of 'em was causing the drain?
2. what else could be a likely cause in the other above control units??
problem began about 2 months ago
solved maybe -
1. found DTC code b1278 "headlight switch ON" - (in Control Unit 70) cleared it & it did not return - Yet
- there are a few posts elsewhere about this code which one can find via google
2. ALSO - after much other diagnostics - found that the NEW Interstate 51R battery from COSTCO was not up to spec - advertised 650 CA 500 CCA - would only do 450 CA on Load Test , so it just didn't have the reserve to stay at 12.6v + under "normal' draw - replaced it with a Walmart Grp 59 600CCA & have had no problems in last 2 weeks; possibly the headlight switch problem was also a factor
all the door locks work & the remote works - & individually working the ***** causes only a momentary amp increase & then stabilizes
1. is there a way to individually isolate/test each door lock switch without removing all the door panels? (apparently not) - and would they all work normally if one of 'em was causing the drain?
2. what else could be a likely cause in the other above control units??
problem began about 2 months ago
solved maybe -
1. found DTC code b1278 "headlight switch ON" - (in Control Unit 70) cleared it & it did not return - Yet
- there are a few posts elsewhere about this code which one can find via google
2. ALSO - after much other diagnostics - found that the NEW Interstate 51R battery from COSTCO was not up to spec - advertised 650 CA 500 CCA - would only do 450 CA on Load Test , so it just didn't have the reserve to stay at 12.6v + under "normal' draw - replaced it with a Walmart Grp 59 600CCA & have had no problems in last 2 weeks; possibly the headlight switch problem was also a factor
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stuck amals
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Sep 29, 2014 09:50 AM



