1997 Honda Accord 2.2L F22B2

Sometime ago I had taken my car apart to adjust the valve lashes and took off the timing cover to inspect the timing. After putting everything back together and starting it up, all of the lights in my car were pulsating and I could tell it was not giving the engine and the battery a stable charge. When driving it the lights would pulsate faster and occasionally the battery light would come on for a second and go away (it would come on more frequently when going up hills). After driving it like this for about a month, the whole car died and the alternator was not charging the battery. I took the alternator out and brought it to a parts store to test it, they said that there's nothing wrong with it. So I put in a new fully charged battery and it still changed nothing. I had inspected the green connector that goes to the alternator and there didn't seem to be anything wrong with it, I tried cleaning it to see if that would change anything but still no luck. Is there any diagnostic procedures i can do to narrow down what the cause might be? The car still runs and drives, but it's only running off the battery until it dies.
Something to note is that it didn't do this before I had taken anything apart, to the best of my knowledge I put everything back the way it should be but of course there may had been something I did wrong that I'm not aware of.

TLDR: Battery and alternator are just fine, but the car is still not getting any charge. It seems to only run off the battery until it completely dies.

 

The alternator is grounded on the engine, where the ground comes via ground G2. Since you mentioned this occurred after adjusting valve lash, etc.; check the ground attachments at T5 (engine mount bracket) and T6 (valve cover), which come from ground G2. Also, check ground G2.



The alternator needs power from under-dash Fuse No. 4 (7.5A) via the Blk/Yel wire that goes to the alternator. That fuse and the Blk/Yel (IG) wire supplies the ignition input that turns on the alternator/regulator assembly. There should be battery power (around 12 volts) at the Blk/Yel at the alternator connector, with the ignition switch in the ON position (car doesn't need to be running).