Engine overheating only when I get on it. If cruising, it’s all good. As soon as I get on the gas or if I cruise over 3.5k, the temp goes over 208 which sets the CEL. The over flow tank fills up and sprays everywhere. I have to pull over and fill the radiator after it cools… before I didn’t have this issue until I was driving it pretty hard one day. After that constantly overheats. Could it be that I put the hoses in the back I correctly? I have been thinking about getting a two row rad but if there’s a. Bigger issue I rather address that first…

I can’t really tell in the shop manual the configuration for the b20.

The head to block hose and the heater core hose behind it. Can’t see it…
b20 with gsr head. Low boost(5psi)

 

You've likely blown the head gasket and are pressurizing the coolant system when getting into boost. I would first try replacing your radiator cap to see if that fixes it. If not, it's head gasket time.

 

Is there any definite test I can run before doing the head gasket?

 

compression, leak down, and block tests may show the blown gasket, or they may not. I have had all 3 tests pass before and it was still a blown head gasket.

 

Are you using ARP studs? you may have lifted the head and have a head gasket leak. Check the block deck if you remove the head to replace the head gasket to make sure the blocks not warped now.

 

I am running ARP studs. I drove the car last night for a while around town. Did some pulls and engine didn’t over heat. The temperature was around 40 Fahrenheit though and I’m sure that was the reason. Today it is around 55 and it did over heat after a good pull on the high way. I put the blower fan on the car yesterday and at first the heater did not work but after bleeding it it is faintly hot now. If it was h
The head gasket wouldn’t it had over heated last night even if it was cold out? I am hesitant on removing the head as I am afraid of stripping the block like when I assembled it. I had to use Time-Serts…

 

Are you sure it’s not just the thermostat? Try replacing that first.

 

I still think it's a blown head gasket. Being a boosted Honda, you'll likely have to pull the head at some point down the road. You shouldn't have to remove the studs from the block to pull the head off, so no need to worry about stripping the block, I would think? Plus, properly installed Time Serts should be stronger than the original threaded aluminum.

Once you replace your head gasket, you need to do things to prevent it from happening again. Make sure the head and block surfaces are dead flat and that the surface finish is very fine. What brand head gasket are you using?

You said you are running low boost - is it dyno tuned? How much timing are you running at 5 psi?

What are the fan settings in the tune? What fan are you using? Are you using a relay to power the fan? Double check that the fan is not wired backwards.

How close is your down pipe and the turbo's exhaust housing to the radiator?

 

You're right about the head studs not having to come out, I just had PTSD about it lol. It is a cometic HG, 84.5 mm since the block was bored .5 over. It was decked and honed at machine shop and the head was resurface also.

It has not, however, been tuned. The ignition timing, at full boost, I’m not sure about but I can log it and see. What should I be looking at?

I have however played around with hondata somewhat. I have the fan come on at 190 right now but because I was burping the system. Usually I have it at around 170. Its a slim fan from Amazon rated at 800 cfms, supposedly. The down pipe though is right behind the radiator and I have the fan in front. But I reversed the wires to make sure the airflow is through the radiator.

I am planning to remove the head soon though because the hole on the head that was to be plugged, was not tapped(for b20/vtec conversion). The last owner must have used permatex or something and it is leaking oil through there and it drives me crazy.

 

Checking the timing on the hondata app. It looks like timing is a little less than 10 to 10 degrees at wide open throttle and full boost. Around 4-5psi

 

Wait... you are railing on a turbocharged engine that HASN'T been tuned yet ??? Really !?!?

Do a radiator fluid test to see if you have exhaust gas in the coolant. If not, go and get the car tuned for heaven's sake. If it does, pull the cylinder head and make the necessary repairs. Then go and get it tuned BEFORE you rip on it anymore. Overly conservative ignition timing can cause overheating.

You stated that the engine only gets warm when running on the highway... and it cools down when stopped or at lower speeds. This would suggest that the fan is adequate. Either the engine has problems OR/and you do not have enough air flow through the front of the car. You may need to open up the bumper cover. Getting a higher capacity radiator can't hurt either.

I agree with DaX... you likely have caused some damage by beating on the untuned engine and have a blown head gasket.

 

I took the head off after spinning a rod bearing. How that happened I don’t know but it was toast. Bearing is completely done. Cylinders 2,3 and 4 have gnarly cracks on them…