D16A Block and D16Z6 Head mini me what can i do
I have a d16A block I don't know the head and I also have a d16Z6 head with Vtec and another D15 block which one should i go with and what can i do to make it reliable with boost and other stuff. Any recommendations on valves, pistons, rods and Etc. Any know what I also need?
Putting the Z6 head on the D16A block would be my choice.
How much WHP are you wanting to run? Less than 200, you can keep stock everything - I would just slightly open the ring gaps. More than 200, I would go with any of the 137mm length h-beam rods and any name brand forged piston with 10:1 compression ratio. More than 350 I would also add CSS. Regardless, for longevity and reliability, clean/inspect everything and freshen up the seals/gaskets/bearings.
Stock valves will likely be fine. You only need to change springs if you change to a cam that requires more spring seat pressure or if you plan to rev higher than stock redline.
Don't forget that with boost, nearly every other system in the drivetrain must be touched to beef it up for the increase in torque and power.
How much WHP are you wanting to run? Less than 200, you can keep stock everything - I would just slightly open the ring gaps. More than 200, I would go with any of the 137mm length h-beam rods and any name brand forged piston with 10:1 compression ratio. More than 350 I would also add CSS. Regardless, for longevity and reliability, clean/inspect everything and freshen up the seals/gaskets/bearings.
Stock valves will likely be fine. You only need to change springs if you change to a cam that requires more spring seat pressure or if you plan to rev higher than stock redline.
Don't forget that with boost, nearly every other system in the drivetrain must be touched to beef it up for the increase in torque and power.
Well i honestly want to build the who engine so like cams valves pretty much everything you can upgrade i want to upgrade. Im workibg on the suspension rn but im also starting to collect parts for the engine just dont know what the numbers and stuff means i know a bit but not that much.
Also what does CSS mean??
I also bought a cometic gasket set for the top half with the head gasket being set to 75.5 bore what ever that means.
I'm also trying to find the best brands for all the parts or just at least good brands that make good quality things. If wanted I can give a list of the things I have done and bought for the car.
Also what does CSS mean??
I also bought a cometic gasket set for the top half with the head gasket being set to 75.5 bore what ever that means.
I'm also trying to find the best brands for all the parts or just at least good brands that make good quality things. If wanted I can give a list of the things I have done and bought for the car.
If you just start buying "cool" parts without knowing whether or not they are going to work with your setup, you're going to blow a lot of unnecessary money. You need a goal with the car - how will it be driven? where will it be driven? how much power do you want to make? what kind of fuel do you want to run? Answering these questions will guide you to buy the correct parts.
Not sure what you mean by this - you'll need to be more specific:
CSS is a process which converts your open deck block to a closed deck block. Here is their website. Bad Guys offers the same service if you're on the west coast. Or, if you're on a budget and feel like doing it DIY, there has been lots of success using Chris Boyette's epoxy.
So, you want to build this engine - here's what I recommend, starting with the bottom end:
Determine whether or not you're going to CSS the block or not. If you are, strip the block and send it out for the deck to be closed. Just pay the extra money to have them to do the bore / deck / hone as well. Have them also source / purchase a set of name brand forged pistons in the compression ratio of your desire. They will need the pistons before they can bore. Find a local engine machine shop and have them inspect/polish the crank. You'll also want to buy a set of H-beam rods and a set of bearings. You'll probably have to notch the block to clear the rods. A new oil pump is a good idea. Budget ~$2,000 for the bottom end.
If you are not going to CSS the block, strip the block and take the bare block and the crank to a local machine shop. Have the shop inspect/polish the crank and inspect the bores. If the bores need to be re-bored, find out what size they plan to bore to, then buy a set of name brand forged pistons in the compression ratio of your desire. Take the pistons to the machine shop and they will bore the cylinders to match the pistons. Budget ~$1500 going this route.
Not sure what you mean by this - you'll need to be more specific:
dont know what the numbers and stuff means
CSS is a process which converts your open deck block to a closed deck block. Here is their website. Bad Guys offers the same service if you're on the west coast. Or, if you're on a budget and feel like doing it DIY, there has been lots of success using Chris Boyette's epoxy.
So, you want to build this engine - here's what I recommend, starting with the bottom end:
Determine whether or not you're going to CSS the block or not. If you are, strip the block and send it out for the deck to be closed. Just pay the extra money to have them to do the bore / deck / hone as well. Have them also source / purchase a set of name brand forged pistons in the compression ratio of your desire. They will need the pistons before they can bore. Find a local engine machine shop and have them inspect/polish the crank. You'll also want to buy a set of H-beam rods and a set of bearings. You'll probably have to notch the block to clear the rods. A new oil pump is a good idea. Budget ~$2,000 for the bottom end.
If you are not going to CSS the block, strip the block and take the bare block and the crank to a local machine shop. Have the shop inspect/polish the crank and inspect the bores. If the bores need to be re-bored, find out what size they plan to bore to, then buy a set of name brand forged pistons in the compression ratio of your desire. Take the pistons to the machine shop and they will bore the cylinders to match the pistons. Budget ~$1500 going this route.
Pistons- Wiseco or CP (Carillo)
Rods-Skunk2, Eagle, Speedfactory, or Pauter (expensive but the best)
Also all parts associated with an engine rebuild. Look at the forced induction forum for guidance.
What your horsepower/torque goal is determines all of this. Keep it reasonable. Anything over 300wheel horsepower and you’ll be spending a lot more.
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