Currently have a H22A(JDM Black Top) swapped 97 Accord, and I was looking for what the best engine internals to run and what performance parts should help ,me reach that goal, because im trying to reach 300-400 HP all motor. A list would help so much and should I have the motor re-sleeved.

 

It's been awhile since I last looked into H22 builds but I doubt much has changed. 300 WHP is possible but will be pretty difficult to achieve.

Your best bet would be to reach out to a user by the name of 98vtec. He hasn't been on this site for a while but he used to build H22s. He had his own company. His name is Blake if I remember correctly. He lived in FL, and I assume still does.

If 300-400WHP is your goal, I would say a K24 swap would be cheaper and more realistic.

This is a thread you might want to check out, too.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-mo...eader-2987492/

 

300 wheel HP on a street driven H22 is a really difficult task... I have thrown the kitchen sink at mine and have only reached 244 wheel HP on pump gas. A true CNC'd cylinder head would probably net me another 15 or so HP... so now I am scaring the hell out of 260 wheel HP. So, now what ?

 

So what I got is 250 would be more reasonable and achievable?

 

You are getting more reasonable.

 

Swap in a J35/J37 and you are already above your 250 mark.

 

Made 320whp on VP M5. 90 x 95, 14:1 cr, CNC head and Pro 3's, Custom sheet metal intake manifold, and custom header. This was 8 years ago. 280-300whp may be possible on e85 but it will not be a great street-able powerband. Most 4 cylinder NA engines making 300whp are designed for peak power/drag racing.

 

Can I swap f22b2 fuel rail onto h22 or should I just swap fuel lines, only asking because i still have the f22 fuel rail would save the couple buck but if I can’t then it’s fine.

 

You will need to swap the lines, the F22B2 rail doesn't fit the H22 intake manifold.

 

Okay thank you, btw on the clutch line what can I do I really don’t want to do a hard line on the firewall lol, if theres even way to get around it lol. Cause I know I can just swap from a manual cd5 but like I said I want to know if theres and eaier route, not too worried about pricing either.

 

In my opinion, the easiest and best rout is to use hard lines as much as you can. Only need a braided line for flex between the chassis and the transmission. But that's just me!

 

I know I'm a little late, but you can use your stock fuel line and it'll reach the H22 fuel rail no problem if your H22 rail is feeding from the driverside.

​​​​Just run a clutch braided kit for the 94-97 Accord. That's on my to do list in the near future, so I can clean up the clutch dampener off the engine bay wall. Bending the lines to the exact OE and location is PITA! LOL. I know this because I just did an ABS delete with a 40/40 prop valve and I had to re-do all new lines in copper nickel lines for the front. Hated bending them even though they're easier to bend than steel lines.