H22A Swapped 94-97 Accord Questions
So I almost have everything for my swap to be finished, but I do need a ecu, I was told I can use the f22b2 ecu but I was never told if the auto one worked for the manual h22 setup. Im thinking I should just go for the prelude ecu and not waste money on something I can't use.
The F22 ECU doesn't work at all... you need an H22A (P13) ECU to run the engine properly. You can use Accord shift cables if you have an Accord Shifter, Prelude shift cables if you have a Prelude Shifter.
I only asked about using the f22 ecu because my friend said he did use it before I just would lose a little power but it'll run with no issues.
Let me clarify. When I say that the F22 ECU won't work at all, this doesn't mean that the car won't crank, idle, drive down the road or throw a host of engine codes. What I do mean is that short and long term fuel trims will be dramatically high and eventually throw a CEL. The idle may hunt because of the lack of fuel. The engine will likely stumble and hesitate at highway speeds at light to medium throttle operation, and WOT operation will be dangerous to the engine.
I don't know what your friend said exactly with respect to using the F22 ECU... but I wouldn't drive the car with that ECU spirited in any way if it was mine. Use the ECU to idle the car and bleed the cooling system... sure.
I don't know what your friend said exactly with respect to using the F22 ECU... but I wouldn't drive the car with that ECU spirited in any way if it was mine. Use the ECU to idle the car and bleed the cooling system... sure.
I have a '97 2.2CL, which originally had the F22B1 engine in it, but in 2009 I swapped it for the H series with a chipped P72 ECU and H22 base map.
Every year I would swap the stock ECU into the car when it was due for state inspection/emissions. The engine idles fine on the stock CL ECU and drives normally up to ~4k RPM, then it gets "foggy". I'm not sure how else to explain it, but it loses a lot of power, the exhaust get deeper in tone and it just sounds unhealthy. This was all fine to drive few miles to the inspection shop and back home.
In short I would agree with JRCivic1 and get yourself a P13 or some other chipped OBD1 VTEC ECU if you want to enjoy the motor.
Every year I would swap the stock ECU into the car when it was due for state inspection/emissions. The engine idles fine on the stock CL ECU and drives normally up to ~4k RPM, then it gets "foggy". I'm not sure how else to explain it, but it loses a lot of power, the exhaust get deeper in tone and it just sounds unhealthy. This was all fine to drive few miles to the inspection shop and back home.
In short I would agree with JRCivic1 and get yourself a P13 or some other chipped OBD1 VTEC ECU if you want to enjoy the motor.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
londonsupra
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
1
Jun 17, 2006 11:52 PM










