As soon as I get my garage cleaned up from a recent carpentry project, I'll be rebuilding the suspension on my 1992 Civic VX hatchback. Everything on the car is bone stock and I'm pretty sure all the suspension components are original- they're toast, to say the last, car's got 280k miles on it. I will be replacing all the old torn and rotted bushings with new rubber, new ball joints, new tie rod ends, new shocks and springs, new wheel bearings, and new rotors and pads. For the shocks, I'm considering Koni Str.t or Koni Yellow. I want it to ride like a new car and don't ever plan on racing or tracking this car, it's purely a daily driver that I enjoy pushing in the curves, so I don't want a rough ride. I am thinking the Str.t shocks should be fine, since I'd likely leave the Yellows on the softest setting anyways.

My springs need to be replaced, but what do I replace them with, OEM springs? Lowering the car is not really a focus of this project, so I don't want any extreme lowering, or much at all really- I drive on some rough roads and frequently drive on gravel farm roads. What is the recommended solution for this scenario?

 

I went w/ KYB adjustables, and I tried H&R springs.

I think at some point I may go back to my OEM Si springs.

For some reason, I thought they were the same springs as the Integras used, but that does not seem to be correct.

'94 to '01 Integras used Showa springs on the front: https://www.hondaacuraonline.com/oem...w0LWdhcw%3D%3D
They used Mitsubishi springs on the rear (NLA): https://www.hondaacuraonline.com/oem...EtOGwtbDQtZ2Fz

5th Gen Si Civics used NHK springs front and rear, but it looks like a hodge-podge of what models used what:
Front - DX, EX, LX, Si: https://www.hondaacuraonline.com/oem...EtNmwtbDQtZ2Fz
Rear (NLA), but used on CX, DX, Si, VX: https://www.hondaacuraonline.com/oem...EtNmwtbDQtZ2Fz

I am sure there is a table of OEM spring rates somewhere that compares the different spring options across 5th gen Civics and 2nd gen Integras.

 

In general, stiffer springs require softer shock absorbers, while softer springs require stiffer shock absorbers to maintain rebound control. Off-road driving will benefit from softer springs that absorb more of the road's irregularities with more suspension travel.

 

Whe I was researching, spring rates on the 5th gen seem to be lacking. I was able to find the rates on 6th gen but seems no one was kind enough to smash the 5th gen springs to get the rates.

 

when I did Stinkys struts, I used Amazons finest Scitoo brand for the front and Oredy for the rear, gives a firm ride and actually handles decent enough for a daily driver. So far, at 20k miles I have to say they are good. Now mind you, I drive a wee bit different with this car than I do with my other car. Its a 95 civic lx with 420k miles, its my IDGAF car, I dont swerve or slow down for potholes or speedbumps, the alignment is perfect, but if you look at the tires you would think its out of whack because the outer edge of the tires are balding, I dont slow down for turns unless I have too. What I found with this car is that tire pressure makes a bit of difference in regard to handling. I found that going with 40psi instead of 32psi make the car feel more responsive. Im running Amazon finest UNIROYAL tigerpaws, stock size, again rides good and provides fairly decent handling. Stiffer springs and struts are nice, but for a daily driver they can become a pain in the a%%. Now if you want to make the car feel tighter when you turn and whatnot, polyurethane bushings are your friend. Replace any bushing that is rubber with a poly bushing if its available. It will ride like stock but will be a bit more responsive in the turns.
Good luck

 

Actually, the opposite is true. In a spring-mass-damper system, optimal damping is based on minimizing the total energy of the system. I am too old to do the math, but it involves second order differential equations IIRC. Basically, stiffer springs increase the resonant frequency, which increases the energy at resonance, and more damping force is required. Softer springs decrease the frequency, and less damping is required to control the resonant movement.

 

Well, here is what I did...

• Hardrace whole car rubber bushing kits (note, I have
• Koni Yellows
• GC Coilovers (rates 440/350)
• Hardrace upper arms
• Hardrace rear camber & toe arms
• OEM ball joints (I cannot stress the OEM part enough)

It is a bit overkill for a "factory" like ride, but would recommend.

And if you are going to go thru all that effort to do the bushings, go ahead and redo your wheel bearings and hubs.