Okay.....so to preface, I'm no noob to engines, done PLENTY of work from the outside in, but this will be my first COMPLETE engine build. I've already acquired an H22 head which I am disassembling and sending off to the machine shop soon. The guidance I'm looking for is this. My goals for this build are relatively mild....maybe 300-325hp NA. I already have a Prelude, an I'm a huge fan of Hondas larger cars, so this build will probably go into either a standard shift Accord CG5 or, if I can find one, a CL. I bought the head because out here in the Midwest they are not easy to come by. My question is, for a first build, would you guys recommend sticking to a straight H rebuild, or would a G23 with an F23 block be too much trouble for a first. Also, given my goals for the build, would the stock H22 block (if I go straight H) be able to be home out to .010 to accommodate something like the NPR type S pistons given the FRM lining, or would sleeving be recommended? I've read so much on both sides of the argument, but alot of posts are over a decade old. Cams.....Skunk2 stage 1's or 2's? Cranks, stick with the H22, or bump to H23 or F23 for added displacement? For the head, I was planning on going with Ferrea or Supertech bronze guides, and Supertech flat valves STD size obviously. I/M.....stock ported and polished or Skunk2? My current Prelude has the S2 put on by previous owner, and it's kinda more trouble than it's worth that I can tell so far....I've got a perpetual hunting idle I'm currently trying to solve. ECU, I've got a P28 I'll be sending off to get chipped, still deciding between Demon or Hondata (trying to balance cost/benefits) but given my goals are fairly mild, would I be able to run a stock H22 P14? Anything that I haven't mentioned or asked about, or perhaps even overlooked, please feel free to enlighten me. I appreciate any advice anyone wants to offer, do not need any snobbery. I w always been taught to respect ALL builds, so let's see what kind of responses I get. Thanks all in advance.

 

There's nothing relatively mild about a 300-325 NA horsepower H22.

 

I may be bothered to read this and offer insight if it were structured better.

 

Surprise surprise, another H-T snob

 

True statement here. OP, your expectations are completely unrealistic and will end up 75-100 wheel HP short based on the parts list that you have outlined in your initial post. Truly making your target HP numbers will require "Top Shelf" parts and no expense will be spared to reach it. Your initial post suggests you are "Ballin' on a Budget" and this thinking will not get you where you aspire to be.

Below, I have quoted your initial post and will offer some responses in bold to it... take it for what it's worth.

You will need a CNC Ported cylinder head and a top-shelf header (like a HyTech, SixSigmaRacing, ASP or Myers) to come even CLOSE to your target NA build... does this give you an idea of where the direction of your engine budget/price is going ???

 

building a prelude is pretty much waste of money. youre better off by buying some rwd sports car which have turbo from stock

 

Well first, when I stated 300 HP as a goal, I probably should have clarified that as crank, not wheel.....I thought given the fact that a bone stock H22 has a 205 baseline, bumping up 95 more wouldn't be out of reach, but perhaps it is, so since (at the moment anyway) I plan on going NA, I'll drop that to around 250-260ish, is that still unrealistic? I Do appreciate the advice on the valves, as I've never actually rebuilt the internals of my cylinder head, and what you say about the weight makes sense. Oh, and weight was the only reason I mentioned my chassis choice, but I do see what your saying, that chassis weight has no impact on HP output.....you can have a 400hp engine in a 5 ton truck and it'd be slow as hell, for example. But, moving on...Oh.....valve guides.....that's where I really wanted advice.....so I'm about to pull the valves, if there isn't any play in the stems, and the guides appear to be in good factory condition, then I SHOULD NOT replace them....even as preventative maintenance? That's good to know....I only thought that given the H22 tendency to burn oil, that fresh guides, and obviously stem seals, could mitigate that problem prior to it starting, but it's good to know that, unless needed, I should just leave them alone.....because I've had many people say to automatically replace the guides on a rebuild. So, a little more on my goals and perhaps this can guide what advice is given, I live in a city with alot of stop and go, and even though I'm basically building this to be a "fun weekend toy" and an occasional track car once I get my cert after the winter, I'm leaning more towards a nice amount of torque rather than all out high revving power, I think it'd be more fun and useful. Am I correct in what I've read that the F23 or H23 crank and rods can be used in the H22 block to increase displacement and,beith the longer stroke, thus increasing torque output? If this can be used, would it not present issues with piston clearance do to the oil squirters? Is there a work-around? A high compression piston that can be used with the F23 crank/H22 block combo that does not present clearance issues, or is the only fix an extra thick head gasket? Seems like a sketchy work around if it's the only way. Oh, and to the other responder who said building a Prelude is a waste of time.....it most certainly is not to me, because I LOVE the Prelude, I think it's a beautiful car, and it what I WANT....and I WANT to have a decent engine that I BUILT powering it, because it's what I enjoy and what I want to do, it's not about a specific goal of having a 12 second car or something for me, it about the process of building an engine I enjoy, on a car I love. That's it, so to me, definitely worth it. But I really do appreciate the advice, even if your delivery is a little coarse, I can appreciate it, and I most certainly will take all the information you've provided into consideration from here out. Anyoelse you think I could consider, please let me know. Oh, and if you know about those pistons (and I have read alot that with the pistons, it should be either ORM or Mahle, given the FRM lining, so I agree with you there, I know your correct, and thanks)

 

I have been accused more than once that my "bedside manner" lacks polish... I suppose it comes with the territory when one is a grumpy old man like myself !!! I am a straight-talking no BS kind of guy and this often comes across a bit harsh in the 2D world.

I am a huge H22 fan... check out my signature. I have no experience with the F23/H23 crankshaft conversions personally, so I would not be prepared to guide you with this venture. I am not aware of any combination of OE dimensioned parts that would work properly, even if you use a really thick head gasket... which I DO NOT recommend by the way. I do agree with you that increasing displacement does increase torque in the mid-range... and this will improve your street driveability. I suspect the oil squirters can be gently bent to clear a bigger crankshaft... but I would have to do some research on a proper connecting rod and piston choice... and this path would REQUIRE ditching the FRM sleeve and re-sleeve the block with iron sleeves.

 

I have the answers that the OP is looking for but he called me a "snob" for not wanting to read his giant blocks of poorly formatted text. Guess he will figure it out on his own.