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i purchased a Ktuner and received it few days ago. i need some assistance as far as some of parameters go. I have tried on Ktuner.com forum but no help . Q1 under Disable/Monitors I have checked boxes for Oxygen sensors since I have RV6 PCDs, J-pipe. I also have EGR delete kit. if I click on EGR valve flow, and also disable monitors on the right for EGR system, does this disable my EGR? i can go ahead and install my EGR delete kit? see pics below Q2 Before I uploaded the tune. Ktuner was reading and showing different value readings on STFT & LTFT like -8 to +5. after i checked the box for O2 all it shows is LTFT at 0 and STFT at 100%. is this normal? also my AFR was moving around different values., now it is stuck on 14.7 . is this because I disabled O2s? thank you in advance.
i found this on very top of this forum. for tuning i must run in closed loop/ OBJECTIVE
The emissions process cumulatively sums and periodically polls all the data. You want to give them the least amount of data in order to pass. Spend as little time accelerating as possible so the cumulative CO2 and fuel samples (CO) stay low, without using so much power that the polled data is too high. Keep enough ignition advance to curb all unburned fuel (HC) output. Keep AFRs and ignition reasonable enough to avoid high combustion temperatures (NOx).
PREPARATIONS
1.) You must run in closed loop (after tuning of course). A wideband is preferable, but many cars can get by on the stock O2. Many states require a post-cat O2 (96+), however they rarely check to see if it's operating, just that it's installed.
2.) For lightly modded cars, all you should need is a stock map with an active O2, so ignore the rest of this if you're just running bolt-ons.
3.) For turbo, remove the wastegate spring - for internal gates, disconnect the arm so the flap stays open. We need to reduce the airflow as much as possible without choking. If you have stock injectors available, you may even pass as-is with a stock map and stock O2.
4.) For compression over 12:1, good luck you might want to see if you qualify for an alternative fuels exemption (ethanol). Using two cats on E85 worked for me on a 12.5:1 GSR, otherwise you'll have a difficult time not burning a ton of pump gas or risking knock which spikes NOx levels.
5.) Use a 190-degree thermostat. Hotter engines burn less fuel - if you don't pass on higher compression, use a 170 thermo. The more restrictive your intake is, the less fuel you'll need. Same goes for exhaust.
6.) If you have an aggressive cam, there's a fair chance you won't pass. Use stock cams if possible, or retard them with cam gears. For SOHC, retard the cam 8 degrees, make sure you're not getting piston contact. For DOHC, retard the intake cam 8-10, but leave the exhaust cam closer to 0 so we can burn that combustion longer.
7.) Don't forget to set your base distributor timing to OEM spec.
8.) Use premium fuel. It burns cleaner, leaner, and give us more wiggle room. It may increase CO, but usually not enough to fail you if it's tuned right.
BASIC TUNING PROCEDURE
1.) Set all your targets under 60% throttle to 15:1 AFR - most of the smog test is done in part throttle. If you find you're accelerating very slowly or hesitating, do not add ignition yet - just add fuel. If you're exceeding 13.5:1 AFR and you're still slow to accelerate, add ignition and reduce fuel if possible - keep in mind this may increase NOx - probably not by a huge value though especially if you're running ethanol.
2.) None of the smog test should really require more than 60% throttle, but if it does, try to target 14:1 AFR, or 13.8:1 if you find yourself flooring it to get anywhere. If you're not hitting atmospheric pressure with the wastegate open, you have little choice but to re-spring and hope they don't rail on it, or throw on a stock header.
3.) For high compression, you have to maintain normal target AFRs. You can try to lean out (let's say 10%) and retard ignition (say 5*) to reduce CO but you may run into a higher HC reading since you'll have to spend more time accelerating. Cam angle adjustments can help with that. You can then advance ignition, but if you end up with high HC or CO in conjunction with high NOx, it's time to upgrade the cat and revert to richer numbers.
4.) Some engines or dished pistons under 9:1 CR will experience bucking or hesitation when using stock ignition tables. You should have plenty of room to advance 3-5* without compromising NOx due to the extra room in the combustion chamber.
13 TL TYPE SHAWD KTUNER Q's
you might want to see if you qualify for an alternative fuels exemption (ethanol). Using two cats on E85 worked for me on a 12.5:1 GSR, otherwise you'll have a difficult time not burning a ton of pump gas or risking knock which spikes NOx levels.