New to the Honda world I have a b18b1 looking to keep it n/a and make a good amount of power I wanted to go lsv but my buddy says those have issues and the b18b1 is better he claims the b18b1 can make 250-300whp easy n/a wondering what you guys think and recommend definitely want to stay n/a tho. thanks for the help

 

What parts do you intend to use to make a 300 whp NA LS/VTEC ???

 

Please tell me what your buddy is smoking and where I can get some.

1: LSV or B20V are 100% reliable if properly assembled (which is not rocket science and has been very well documented/covered). I would say they are just as reliable as a 100% OEM engine when not assembled by a monkey.

2: 250-300WHP on a non-VTEC B series is absolutely a pipe dream, especially for an engine intended to be driven on the street. The cylinder heads flow significantly worse than VTEC heads, they absolutely do not make more power.

With a properly built LSV, assuming you kept it "street compatible", you would top out at most between 220->235WHP depending on how the dyno reads. This would be your power output with something like 12.5:1 pistons, Pro2 cams, and good boltons. Only an LSV on race fuel with even higher compression pistons, and monster cams, would make 250 -> 300WHP naturally aspirated.

My suggestion would be to rebuild your block with appropriate parts, and get either a GSR or B16 cylinder head to go LSV. Alternatively, you may want to do some research into how much it would cost to K20 or K24 swap your car. A properly built K24 WOULD be able to make 250WHP+ on non-race fuel, but that's a very different animal and type of build than staying with the B.

Edit: Side note, remember how important it is to have a good transmission with close ratios and a higher final drive to really make the car feel fast. Every time I see an NA B series using an LS transmission, I cry a little inside.

A B16/ITR transmission with a 4.4 final drive or even better 98+ ITR transmission with 4.7 final drive would be ideal. Alternatively, you could modify the gears/FD in your existing trans.

 

Thank you that’s what I thought he seems like the jealous type and keep telling me vtec is crap and not worth it but I say otherwise by everyone else’s number seems like the normal built ls is 140-165 I would definitely like to k swap it does anyone know roughly how much it would be to kswap a 97 ek hatch

 

Price largely depends on how much of the swap you can do yourself and how you go about sourcing your K parts.

 

250-300whp
on a b series realistically youll need 10k area
a 220-235whp $2500-5000 depending on your knowledge

if u have a b18b1 already full swap
you can make 210-225whp/135-150tq with $2500-3k ish


cheap version with reliability and 210-225/135-150^
vtec head
pro1 cams tuner 2-3 or buddy club 4
matching spec valve springs
quality 450-550cc injectors

pistons pref 81.5 to get good p2w
pr3 /p30 (if using pump 92-93oct)
b16b pct (must more than likely use race gas aka e85minimum (no first hand) as its 12-13:1

stock rods
arp rod bolts
quality bearing kit
hasting rings


itr wither or tranny #1
gsr or b16 #2
NEVER LS TRANNY


if u wanna go k
its a loose estimate depends on your level of access and smartness on shopping for deals
but a stock k20a2 /z1 /z3 k24a2 full swap into your car $3000-7500
makes 200-220/140-165tq area stock stock
then bolt ons can make 220-240/140-165 on a 2.0
240-275/150-185 on a 2.4