2008 Acura TL Base 108k miles. I'm just trying to replace that differential oil seal on the passenger side. When I attempted to pop the right lower ball joint out of lower control arm with a 2-Jaw puller, the sleeve came out instead. Would appreciate your suggestions on how to get the sleeve out without damaging it or the ball joint. If I can't save both, I'd probably cut the stud off and press the sleeve out intact to save the lower control arm at least. Any clever ideas to save both?

The ball joint moves smoothly without any glitch or noise. I'm not sure if it's on the loose side as I can move it with just one finger to any direction. Other than that, there's no click or play of any sort. Wonder if it's normal for a Honda lower ball joint at its age.


Ouch! Lower ball joint sleeve instead of ball joint was pressed out of lower control arm!

Ball joint can be moved to any direction with just 1 finger. Movements are smooth, no click, no give, no noise.

Ball joint can be moved to any direction with just 1 finger. Movements are smooth, no click, no give, no noise.

 

i dunno. to save the part(s) may not be worth the hassle.

i agree its probably a good ball joint if you could just get the sleeve off. but its also a used ball joint.

as for the LCA, also, if you dont save that sleeve, then its useless and NEEDS to be replaced. even if you could get a replacement sleeve, how would you prevent it from separating again. (i guess once its bolted up its all good)

might just be easier to replace both. if the sleeve is still there, its pressed on pretty darn hard and not going to come out without a lot of effort.

i'm sure ppl are just going to say use heat. at this point, youve got nothing to lose except time. maybe grind some divots and use a 3 jaw gear puller. i have no better ideas.


is this a factory OEM arm? is it aluminum? curious why theres even a sleeve.

ok, i just looked, there is a sleeve and its a cast iron control arm... odd. when i worked on my 2006 TSX i didnt have issues. not sure i noticed a sleeve. (confirmed, no sleeve on a TSX).

anyway, is this actually a problem??? just leave it and reassemble, use a new castle nut (cough) and torque it down when youre done, cotter pin, done.



yikes! what a butcher. but he saved it.

my man @94eg! was right tho! https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p.../#post13842926 what "tool" did you use to pop this balljoint off? did you use the proper separator? this harbor freight one is identical in function. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...xoCOSMQAvD_BwE

 

Thank you, Tyson, for your help!

The AcuraZine link is very useful! Being a novice, I didn't understand it's CRITICAL to grab/push on the sleeve on the TLs. For fear of damaging the boot I opted out of using the Harborfreit Ball Joint Separator. Instead, I chose a 2-jaw puller that just grabbed the LCA. As a result, the sleeve was pushed out while the LBJ stud was still stuck in the sleeve. I'm going to try the Ball Joint Separator to push the sleeve out and ball joint service tool to press the sleeve back in the LCA! Perhaps I'll freeze the sleeve and see if I can lightly tap it in with a rubber mallet.

Thank you again, Tyson! You rock!

I used this puller with its 2-jaw configuration to push the LBJ stud while grabbing LCA with the jaws.

 

Thank you, Tyson! I successfully saved both LBJ and LCA! As planned, I used the ball joint separator to press the ball joint sleeve off the stud. It required so much force that I couldn't turn the nut with a 1/2" drive Craftsman rachet any bit more. Fortunately, the impact wrench I invested for this project helped me get there. :-)

Notice the sleeve on the LCA hole in the 2nd photo? I plan to freeze it overnight and try to press it in with a big C-clamp.
The deflated ball joint boot seems needing a little more grease. I plan to inject some Moly-Lithium EP grease in there with a needle. Worth the effort?
ABS sensor was seized by rust. Used PB Blaster to soak and wiggled it free eventually. What would you recommend to inhibit future rust?
1. Rust inhibiting primer on the mating surface and in the bore
2. Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant
3. Moly-Lithium EP grease
4. 3M 08946 Clear Silicone Paste
Or a combination of 1 and one of 2, 3, or 4?


Used a ball joint separator to push the sleeve off.


Sleeve on top of the LCA hole. Will press it in.


Would ball joint like a little more grease?


The ABS sensor bore still looks rusty even after cleaning.


All set up to pull the axles and replace the oil seal...

 

i dont think repacking the balljoint is necessary. im sure theres still plenty in there as long as theres no cracks. ball joints arent meant to last the life of the vehicle.

just reassemble.