99 Civic HX no start, scanner won't connect
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Firefighting in Virginia, USA
I have a 99 Civic HX that won't start, it cranks over fine but the fuel pump is silent when you turn the key to the run position. I have checked all the fuses under the dash and under the hood. I noticed when you turn the key to run the cel doesn't turn off which should mean there is a stored code, I connected my scanner tool but it tells me that it cannot establish a link to the vehicle... I haven't done this yet but I can also do it the old school way of using the connector at the ecu and count the flashes.
I had found that there is an issue with the ignition switches on this generation and evidently was a recall but nothing comes up when I search by the vin number and basically Honda will only repair it once for free using the exact same part. I have ordered a new switch for it which should come tomorrow but was wondering if that would prevent power to the ecu on being able to connect to it. I've already replaced the main relay 2-3 yrs ago because I knew that was also a common issue so didn't want to take a chance.
I read mostly when the ignition switch fails that when you hit a bump in the road the car can shutoff or if you have a lot of keys hanging on your keyring. I do have the original ecu for it but just need to find it, evidently this is a CA emissions car and I had swapped it out for the A33 Federal one which is the most recent version, I'm in VA but don't live in NOVA where they do test. I guess I'll look for the other ecu but if replacing the switch doesn't resolve it then I'll try that next.
I literally just had the airbag inflater replaced a few weeks ago but haven't really drove it much.
I had found that there is an issue with the ignition switches on this generation and evidently was a recall but nothing comes up when I search by the vin number and basically Honda will only repair it once for free using the exact same part. I have ordered a new switch for it which should come tomorrow but was wondering if that would prevent power to the ecu on being able to connect to it. I've already replaced the main relay 2-3 yrs ago because I knew that was also a common issue so didn't want to take a chance.
I read mostly when the ignition switch fails that when you hit a bump in the road the car can shutoff or if you have a lot of keys hanging on your keyring. I do have the original ecu for it but just need to find it, evidently this is a CA emissions car and I had swapped it out for the A33 Federal one which is the most recent version, I'm in VA but don't live in NOVA where they do test. I guess I'll look for the other ecu but if replacing the switch doesn't resolve it then I'll try that next.
I literally just had the airbag inflater replaced a few weeks ago but haven't really drove it much.
The fuel pump should make some noise when you turn the key and it primes. You might want to replace that next.
I don’t think the ignition switch would block power being sent to the ECU and not allow you to get a code. I’m not sure about that, but I don’t think so.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,215
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From: Firefighting in Virginia, USA
Thought I'd give an update, the new switch didn't change anything and is a huge pain in the rear... the switch itself was easy but one of the connectors Honda decided to add 2 extra wires that you have to unpin and then insert them into the new one, I couldn't get them out so ended up having to mangle the old one cutting it with my diagonal cutters just to free them. I broke the 2nd wire but was able to splice on a new female spade connector but what Honda should've done was add a pigtail connector so it was just plug n play.... the car still would just crank over but the cel light stayed on and no fuel pump either. I jumped the connector at the ecu to count the flashes but the light stayed solid and I noticed the srs light stayed on but then went off for a second or two but then it stayed lit, I removed the paperclip and now the fuel pump is working and the car is starting again.
Right now I'm leaning towards the ecu because earlier I couldn't connect to it and still had the same problems even after replacing the switch. I'm still having trouble finding the one I do have but thinking of just ordering another used Federal one off Ebay, new ones online from a dealer are over $800. The pump is easy enough to change out on these and something I am considering after swapping out the ecu.
Right now I'm leaning towards the ecu because earlier I couldn't connect to it and still had the same problems even after replacing the switch. I'm still having trouble finding the one I do have but thinking of just ordering another used Federal one off Ebay, new ones online from a dealer are over $800. The pump is easy enough to change out on these and something I am considering after swapping out the ecu.
Last edited by Kista20; Oct 26, 2021 at 05:56 AM.
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