Clutch bleed not working properly
1993 Accord EX manual, 240 miles into new clutch/rear main.
Hello, I recently had my clutch pedal stick to the floor after shutting it off to fill my gas. I turned it back on and it had pressure, started the car and it didn't come back up. Replaced the master and slave and lifted the car to inspect the entire hard and soft portions of the hoses, no leaks after that. I have been trying to bleed it for a couple of days now with very little success in getting the pedal repressurized, it is hanging a couple inches from the floorboard and does function enough to shift up to 3rd. I didn't try going any faster.
I have manually bled through two liters of fluid with no more air from the valve as well as used a plastic vacuum pump (30 max psi) to try reverse bleeding from the reservoir side between the two manual bleedings, with no air at all for a half an hour during the second manual bleed. I've heard the throw out bearing can be a culprit but I wanted to ask if there there is anything wrong with what I've been doing.
Pedal to the floor, (vaccum pressure), open the bleeder, close the bleeder, pump the pedal a few times back to the floor. I've also done one vacuum out the slave instead of the reservoir but that was solid fluid for 10-15 minutes, i have had the hoses submerged in fluid for each process.
I don't understand what I'm doing wrong if anything, am i just not doing it long enough? The longest I've tried was about a half hour to 45 minutes.
Hello, I recently had my clutch pedal stick to the floor after shutting it off to fill my gas. I turned it back on and it had pressure, started the car and it didn't come back up. Replaced the master and slave and lifted the car to inspect the entire hard and soft portions of the hoses, no leaks after that. I have been trying to bleed it for a couple of days now with very little success in getting the pedal repressurized, it is hanging a couple inches from the floorboard and does function enough to shift up to 3rd. I didn't try going any faster.
I have manually bled through two liters of fluid with no more air from the valve as well as used a plastic vacuum pump (30 max psi) to try reverse bleeding from the reservoir side between the two manual bleedings, with no air at all for a half an hour during the second manual bleed. I've heard the throw out bearing can be a culprit but I wanted to ask if there there is anything wrong with what I've been doing.
Pedal to the floor, (vaccum pressure), open the bleeder, close the bleeder, pump the pedal a few times back to the floor. I've also done one vacuum out the slave instead of the reservoir but that was solid fluid for 10-15 minutes, i have had the hoses submerged in fluid for each process.
I don't understand what I'm doing wrong if anything, am i just not doing it long enough? The longest I've tried was about a half hour to 45 minutes.
You could try this method.
- Get an empty plastic water bottle and drill a hole on its lid. The hole size should be just nice to fit a 6mm plastic/rubber tube.
- Fill the bottle with used brake fluid up to the level just enough for you to immerse one end of the 6mm tube and close the lid.
- Insert the tube into the bottle filled with brake fluid through the hole you drilled earlier.
- Connect the other end of the tube to the slave pump bleed nipple and place the bottle somewhere you can see. I tied it to the bonnet stand using a cable tie.
- Open the bleed nut.
- Pump the pedal and watch the fluid flow from the pump into the bottle. You may also see air bubbles travelling with the fluid in the tube. It may take a while before you start feeling some pressure on the pedal. Be patient.
- Frequently check the fluid reservoir to ensure it is not empty. I suggest you top-up the fluid after 5 or 6 repetitions.
- After a while you can feel the clutch slowly building pressure.
- Continue the process until you have optimum pressure and no more air bubbles in the tube.
- Close the bleed nut and that's it. Good luck.
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