Test radiator fan module on 96-honda?
I have a 96 honda accord ex. yesterday the cooling & condenser fans stopped operating. I have electric windows (& they are working) so I was able to swap its relay with the one for cooling fan to test it. The windows worked so cooling fan relay appears to be good (located under the hood, passenger side at firewall). I've unplugged the condenser fan & connected it to battery to test it and it did work. I haven't done the same yet with cooling fan. Having a hard time disconnecting its plug. I've jumped coolant temp. (ECT) switch-A & turned the key to on position but cooling fan doesn't come on.
However, yesterday when I did this while the engine was still hot, the cooling fan did work once. Hasn't work again since. When I turn the key to on position then back to off & jump the ECT switch-B, I can hear the passenger side relay under the hood click. The cooling fan on this car did operate for a period of time when engine was off & engine was hot.
Earlier this week I discovered a small leak of the hose from radiator to coolant reservoir. I replaced the hose & put clamps on the ends (didn't have them before) this time. I noticed much better city driving performance of the a/c afterwards. All was good until a couple of days ago but at least I wasn't stranded away from home.
Now I wonder if there's a way to test the radiator fan control module that's suppose to be behind the glove box? And, maybe the powertrain & control module as well?
The Chilton's repair manual's wiring schematic only shows the powertrain control module connected to the cooling system circuit. Another diagram (not a wiring diagram) shows the radiator fan control module but this diagram is for a 1995 accord. I believe the circuits should be the same. If the cooling fan motor went bad, the condenser fan motor should still operate when the a/c is turned on. Currently that's not happening. I learned the proper names of some of the components involved from previously posted forums from this web site.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
However, yesterday when I did this while the engine was still hot, the cooling fan did work once. Hasn't work again since. When I turn the key to on position then back to off & jump the ECT switch-B, I can hear the passenger side relay under the hood click. The cooling fan on this car did operate for a period of time when engine was off & engine was hot.
Earlier this week I discovered a small leak of the hose from radiator to coolant reservoir. I replaced the hose & put clamps on the ends (didn't have them before) this time. I noticed much better city driving performance of the a/c afterwards. All was good until a couple of days ago but at least I wasn't stranded away from home.
Now I wonder if there's a way to test the radiator fan control module that's suppose to be behind the glove box? And, maybe the powertrain & control module as well?
The Chilton's repair manual's wiring schematic only shows the powertrain control module connected to the cooling system circuit. Another diagram (not a wiring diagram) shows the radiator fan control module but this diagram is for a 1995 accord. I believe the circuits should be the same. If the cooling fan motor went bad, the condenser fan motor should still operate when the a/c is turned on. Currently that's not happening. I learned the proper names of some of the components involved from previously posted forums from this web site.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
See attachment for the service manual's instructions for testing the radiator fan control module and other components.
Per the manual and the wiring diagram, I would be homed in on the failure of either fan to come on when ECT Switch A is shorted.
The first thing I would check is Fuse No. 8 in the under-dash fuse relay box.
Then I would remove the Radiator Fan Relay, turn the ignition switch to On (engine off) and check for 12 volts at each of the four pins for the Radiator Fan Relay socket. There should be 12 volts on exactly two of the pins.
If you report back what you find, I can likely offer further suggestions.
Or you might be on your way now that you have the service manual section.
Per the manual and the wiring diagram, I would be homed in on the failure of either fan to come on when ECT Switch A is shorted.
The first thing I would check is Fuse No. 8 in the under-dash fuse relay box.
Then I would remove the Radiator Fan Relay, turn the ignition switch to On (engine off) and check for 12 volts at each of the four pins for the Radiator Fan Relay socket. There should be 12 volts on exactly two of the pins.
If you report back what you find, I can likely offer further suggestions.
Or you might be on your way now that you have the service manual section.

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