This will be the third time I try to post something in the last 4 days. Kind of getting frustrating that it says it'll have to be approved and then nothing happens. Have checked my email multiple times for anything regarding email verification or post publishing and have received nothing. where are the mods? Someone please help lol

I digress.

2003 civic 1.7 (non v-tec) automatic.
​​​​​​
Cranks over and over but doesn't fire/start. WAS intermittent but now it won't start at all. NO CEL, NO CODES.

Before it stopped starting all together, the engine cut out on me as I slowed down(Approaching traffic light, stop sign and a turn). I don't know if it's significant at all but it cut out super quietly, nothing electric flickered or dimmed, car didn't jerk or lurch. I didn't even know it had cut off until I realized the power steering was out and the throttle was unresponsive.

I can hear the fuel pump relay and pump click/hum and prime.
I verified that I have fuel going into the rail.

​​​​​​I pulled the valve cover and timing housing, Verified that the timing marks are all as they should be and the belt is not loose at all.

I've checked through live data and visually through the oil fill that I have rpms registering and I can see it cranking.

I've metered the battery and alternator. Battery is like new and holding charge well. Alternator is also fairly new and charging well.

I checked all three grounds and they're all grounded.

I've been having trouble checking for spark because I'm by myself but at the beginning of this, I did have spark and I will verify again tonight that I have spark.

​​​​​I've also tried running it on starting fluid. It worked once or twice and both times stayed running for about 3 or 4 minutes before dying out.

Also, I noticed it run through oil very quickly, like unusually fast but the car (when running) shows no signs of lack in performance. Antifreeze is beautifully clean and the oil stays very clean as well.

The immobilizer indicator does not continue to flash either.

I'm stumped.






​​​​​​Any ideas?
​​​​​​

 

Senditude,

-- What, if any, maintenance or repairs were done in the weeks before this problem started?

-- Regarding the immobilizer, is the green light in the instrument cluster flashing when you try to start the Civic? More on this in this thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...ranks-2910091/

-- Would you please confirm that, when you turn the key to the "On" position, also known as position II, and with the engine Off, the CEL comes on as part of the 'lamp check'?

-- Have you connected a code reader to the Civic's OBD connector and actually checked for codes?

-- Do confirm that the Civic is getting spark. Youtube has a lot of videos on the subject.

-- A leading cause of a crank no start condition is a failed crankshaft position sensor (a.k.a. "CKP sensor"). Sometimes the CKP sensor fails and curiously, does not cause a code. Make sure its connector fastens properly. Sometimes the connector pins get bent and are catty-wompus, causing starting and/or running problems. Inspect the pins carefully. Do the test of the crankshaft position sensor as described in post #5 at https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...on-sensor.html . Replacement of the crankshaft position sensor replacement is like a mini timing belt job. It's a fair amount of work to get to the sensor. If you do tear down the timing belt side this far, do inspect the sensor's reluctor closely for a missing tooth.

-- I am not ruling out the TDC/camshaft position sensor having failed, either. Check its connector and that the pins are straight, et cetera. See test procedure in post #3 at https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...ensor-2410323/

-- Consider checking fuel pressure as described by member "It Wasn't Me" at https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...ssure-2944675/ ? "It Wasn't Me" is or was one of the moderators. His posts are reliable.

-- Just to cover all the bases: The air filter is not all clogged up, is it? Remove the filter and shake it out.

-- Consider going to a salvage yard and picking up a spare camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor and swapping them in.

 

Hey, Lioness.

​​​​​​Thank you for the response.
All of my warning // incidator lamps work as Intended.

Since the post, I Have:

-Checked for compression with a compression test kit.
​​​​​​-Tested for spark using an inline spark tester (also put new NGK plugs in it).
-Tested fuel pressure: 32psi
-Checked timing (visually)
-Tested (fuel) relay and pump with 12v source & multimeter.
-Tested injectors with 12v source & multimeter. -Scoped the cylinders and pulled valve cover to check valves.
​​​​​​-Tested charging system with multimeter (including battery) .
-Ohmed out grounds for resistance with multimeter.
​​​​​​

EVERYTHING that I tested, passed and is in good working order.
in a last ditch effort, I pulled my crankshaft position sensor and attempted to start the vehicle. It started right up.​​

As I type this response, I am sitting inside my wheel well hiding from the sun & trying to figure out how I'm going to break loose & re-torque this nut without the car being on a lift. Will update after my new [Denso] Crankshaft position sensor is installed.

Still confused as to why a failed CPS would not throw a CEL//CODE but I'm happy that I know now.

Want to replace my cam sensor as well but can not locate DENSO brand cam sensor anywhere. Is there another suggested brand? I've heard that these Hondas don't particularly take well to aftermarket electronics.

 

Senditdude, I am seeing a bunch of supposedly OEM TDC / camshaft position sensors on eBay for under $20. I think the OEM p/n is 37840-RJH-006 . The price is so low that I am suspicious these may be counterfeits. Do contact the seller and try to get confirmation that these are OEM.

The Denso equivalent may be 196-2008, but again, I cannot quite confirm this.

Is it the crankshaft pulley bolt which you are pondering? If so, you need the front left on a jackstand; wheels chocked; and an appropriate pulley holding tool. One can buy a tool on eBay or similar; possibly rent one at O'Reilly's or Autozone; or make one. At https://sites.google.com/site/ellessite/ , under "Hex Home-Made Pulley Holder Tool (pdf)" are directions for making one.

For the archives, I believe the Denso equivalent for the Crankshaft Position Sensor is 196-2001.

 

So, yes I've seen similar cheap parts that are listed as "OEM" but I'm not purchasing it unless it has denso stamped on it or I can verify that it is OEM.

And yes, I was wondering how I was going to get enough leverage to break the pulley bolt loose & and enough leverage to re-torque it.

I've always been under the impression that you can not but an extension on a torque wrench but I was told today that you can. Apparently the only time it's affected is when the fulcrum is extended away from the handle.

I've got the sensor back in and the pulley back on. I'm going to button her all up tomorrow and I will update whether or not the new sensor solved my problem.

[Side note: it looks like the sensor that I pulled out was recently installed ( I've only had the car for 2 or 3 months.) It was one of the generic cheapo sensors so I suspect the "NO CEL // NO CODE" was because of that.]

 

Strange there was no CEL with a P0336 code...

 

They do not like aftermarker sensors, go to Honda or order genuine Honda sensors off EBay. If you are referring to your crank pulley bolt, do yourself a huge favor and but a weighted socket. They're about 20 bucks on Amazon. Use it with an impact wrench, either pneumatic or cordless. I used a ½ inch breakover bar and a massive cheater pipe, put all of my 240 lbs on it and bounced, couldn't break it loose. Weighted socket and impact, pop! Spun right out. Tighten it same way.