I apologize ahead of time if this post is similar to another I tried to post earlier. I'm in the sticks with very shitty internet availability and am unsure if my first (very lengthy) post from this morning was successful

I have a 2003 Civic LX non V-TECH 1.7 (Automatic) 185,000 miles
I've had it about 2 months. It's been starting and running great. There has been maybe 3 times where it cranked for 3-5 seconds before firing and running fine.

This past Sunday morning I was leaving my sister's house very early and headed home. My high beams, wipers & defrosters were on as I approached a stop light and I noticed I had lost power steering. What actually happened is my engine cut off completely but there was no jerking, tugging or lurching. No signs at all that it had cut off. I have never had an engine die so smoothly on me. All the electrics were still on. (No nothing was dimming)

I managed to get it off the road and it Crank/No started for about 15 minutes until finally starting. Drove it back to my sister's (about 5 miles) and decided to wait til daylight to make a decision.

A few hours, It started up first try and I drove an hour home. Car ran fine and I approached each stop as slow and cautious as possible just in case.

Sunday (later in the day) while at home, I took the car up and down my road over and over again in order recreate the issue. I managed to get it to cut off again. It did it as I was slowing down to turn around. Once it was in the driveway, it began it's first 1+ hour crank no start session. I listened for the click of the relay and the hum of the fuel pump Everytime and Everytime both were working and it would just crank and crank forever.

After a few more hours of resting it, I went to start it and It started up first try no struggle or extensive cranking at all. I ran it for a few minutes listened to it idle and everything seemed fine. Turned it off and put on a change of clothes because I had to go pick up my dogs meds. Started up again perfectly and got me to the store. When I went to start it to head home, all crank no start. Continued this for about an hour. Even called AAA for a tow. While waiting, I would occasionally try to start it and after the 100th time, it started right up and I headed home. Made it home perfectly. Ran great.

​​​​​​Came back out after a little while to see if I could start it, it started 3 times in a row perfectly so I went back in and decided to look at it in the light the next day.

Monday morning I went out to play with it, no crank no start..
Cranked it for an hour or two before going inside to do more research online. Around noon I came back out and it started right up and I decided to drive up and down the street again a few times to see how it acted. It cut off in the same exact spot as I slowed down to turn around. Pushed back into the driveway, all crank no start again, over and over. Played with it til it got dark, no changes.

Tuesday, I woke up and it wouldn't start again. Did some stuff and got it running. It was starting and running great all day yesterday, was even able to make two trips to the store throughout the day. When I got home after the last trip, it was crank/ no starting again. I'll include everything I had done below. This morning (Wednesday) it started up first try, I ran it down the street a few times, and it cut off again in the same spot as I slowed down. All help is appreciated

To begin with: Every time that I have attempted to start it since Sunday morning, I've listened for both the fuel pump hum/prime and the click of the relay. They haven't failed a single time yet. I've checked for fuel at the rail. Plenty there.

I replaced the spark plugs just in case, they are new plugs and I have spark.

Checked the battery and charging system with a multimeter, nothing is even remotely low/ not charging or not supplying power.

I pulled off the air box to run on starter fluid and that didn't work the first few times but did work after a few attempts.

I monitored the engine coolant temperature on my live data tool and it never went above normal operating temp.

I tried starting it without the ECT sensor, no difference.

I don't really see how it could be a timing issue, I feel like I would notice something off and when it runs, it runs beautifully.

I also feel like it's too come and go to be a timing problem.

Any ideas?

P.s the immobilizer light does not continue to flash, I've only had one key for it since I've had it.

 

ive got the same probs basicly. new pump cam and crank sensor plugs fuel injectors but it only runs when i spray starting fluid int the throttle... try that see if u got the sam prob as me..the car had a time job on it bout 7,000 miles ago but i dint even own it then i only got to put bout 4,000 in it before it crapped out in a partking lot then drove home fine the next day any info on it would be greatful im at my witts end but i just simply dont wanna believe its a timing issue lol

 

Alrighty then.. Let’s get this figured out for you, my dude. We’ll start at the top (regardless of what’s been done) just to cover our asses.

before we start troubleshooting under the hood, Are you using the same key that you have used previously to SUCCESSFULLY start the car? If it’s a spare or replacement, it may lack the transponder and WILL NOT start the vehicle. When you insert the key and turn it to position One, check to see if the GREEN KEY LIGHT on the dash continuously flashed or stops after flashing for just a few seconds.

if this is not the issue.

(I’d advise doing these tests with the air of removed so that you ensure throughout each test that you are getting air)

(1.) (Even if the sensor is new, still try this).While the car is not starting. Take the key out of the ignition, disconnect the crankshaft position sensor plug (make sure it’s not hanging on the pulley) and attempt to start the vehicle. Hold it for a few extra seconds as well because with the sensor unplugged, the car will take longer to start.

—A. If it starts, you need a new cam sensor. (I don’t care if it’s been replaced already, civics do not react well to new sensors that are NOT DENSO OEM.)

—B. If it doesn’t not start, move to step 2.

(2.)Check for spark.

—A. If no spark, check battery, Plugs and coils.

—B. If does have spark, move to step 3.

(3.)Check for fuel // Fuel pressure. I typically disconnect the fuel line at the fire wall and shove it into a bottle and then turn key to prime pump and check bottle for fuel. (Please remember that the system is pressurized and take proper precautions before disconnecting line.)

—A. If you don’t have fuel, Check pump, filter & lines for blockage. (Some filters are IN pump). if you suspect that you’re not getting enough fuel during test.. test for pressure.

—B. If you have fuel, move to step 4.

Step 4. Test for compression & Timing.

If YOU did not do work on this vehicle and someone else has, DO NOT assume it was done or especially done CORRECTLY. Test for everything. I’m here if you have any questions.

If you do all of these and still can not figure it out, report back and we will brainstorm some more.

 

Hoping to resurrect this thread as I am having nearly identical symptoms, but with a B18C1 in my 2000 hatchback:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...start-3364450/

Things I have checked/replaced:
- ICM
- Main relay
- Ignition switch
- Fuel pump sounds perfect, fuel does spray when cranking on the engine-side of the filter
- TDC is perfect
- Problems persist with TPS unplugged or with MAF unplugged.

 

alright we’ll I’m here. Let’s start at the top just to cover ours asses.

what EXACTLY are the symptoms you’re experiencing? When did you first notice them? Is your vehicle’s drivetrain modified at all or is it all stock?

 

Yes, it's a complete swap-over from a GSR. I believe it to all be OBD2 stuff. The exact factors, symptoms, etc are all over here in a thread a made about it:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...start-3364450/

But the short is, it died (very smoothly) at low speeds and then would not start back up. Cranks endlessly but will not run.

 

I’m not familiar with your engine on specific but I read over completely through your post.

I don’t remember you mentioning the Crankshaft position sensor.

if you haven’t yet (and you can..?),

attempt to start vehicle a few times, make sure it’s still not starting.

unplug the crankshaft position sensor and attempt to crank it again.

When my crankshaft sensor went bad, it exhibited the same symptoms.

when I unplugged the sensor, it went from continuous crank/no stat to a 3-4 second crank and then start and run.

 

I will, thanks!

I have replaced a crank sensor before on a Jeep TJ. Those symptoms were different in that the jeep ran like a top until 2500 rpm then bucked like a bronco. I was able to limp it home twice because of this before finding the issue. I have no doubts the symptoms could be very different in such a different vehicle though.

I am out of town on work till Thursday. Hoping to wrap it up as soon as I get home though.

 

Sorry, one more thing, you are referring to the sensor located behind the lower timing cover near the crank snout/oil pump, correct? I know some folks call it the Crankshaft Fluctuation Sensor and refer to the one inside the distributor as the Crankshaft Position Sensor. The latter of which does not have a separate connector from the distributor and cannot be unplugged. Thanks!

 

Unplugging the sensor did not do the trick.

I continued looking over the engine bay and attempted to start the car with some easy access sensors unplugged. When I unplugged the Idle Air Control Valve on the back of the intake manifold, the car would start the most consistently that it has in a week. It would struggle, but turn over, begin to idle at ~1000rpm, and die within three seconds. If I even whispered at the throttle while it momentarily idled, it would die instantly.

This does seem like the Idle Air Control Valve may be contributing to the problem, but my symptoms are not very consistent with typical failing IACV symptoms. Otherwise I am struggling to come up with more solutions. I tried starting without the TPS, MAP, coolant temp sensor, and the sensor located on the intake pipe.

 

For anyone following, there was a large gash in the small bit of fuel hose that runs from the pump to the sending line. I didn't catch it when I first pulled the pump (smh) but found it with a local honda tuner that makes house calls. If anyone is in the OKC area, I can't recommend Nix Tuning enough. The car is now running better than ever and no more hesitation at VTEC crossover.

 

I have a 2004 Honda civic that I’m working on
I bought the car because it needed a timing belt I checked before buying it that the pistons haven’t kissed the valves yet they haven’t I’ve replaced the timing belt and went to start it and all it dose is crank I’ve tried everything I’ve put new spark plugs I’ve checked for spark I’ve check for fuel I’ve check for air I’ve checked the cam shaft and crank shaft sensors I’ve done everything I’ve checked the timing 100 times it’s in time I don’t know what to do now it’s getting annoying I don’t know why it’s not starting any help