please help in any way possible and thank you! i have a crank over but no fire/start problem. here is what happened i replaces the rear shock towers and i was going to do the front suspension but had to wait. so i had moved the car around and it ran perfectly fine. the only issue i had was atleast for a couple months it was taking a little longer to fire while cranking. after moving the car back to its spot i came outside the next day to continue with the work on the car and thats when i had a issue with the continous cranking but did not start. i proceded to check and see if i had spark in which i do. i sprayed a bit of starter fluid into the intake and it try to fire but immediately dies...i do notice while cranking over the engine i do not see the rpm gauge moving at all but when hooked to a scan tool it does show about 100 to 200 rpms or so. so than i proceded to check the pgmfi relay which is the blue one and replaced it and still nothing. i went ahead and replaced the fuel pump as well and had power for a bit and than now suddenly everything powers up but the fuel pump does not have any and all fuses are ok. the only relay i did not replace was the pgmfi relay #2. im super stumped please help. thank you!

 

Do you have engine codes? If so, use them as a place to start your diagnosing.

If not, I'd recommend the following...
1.) If you know the fuel pump isn't getting power, this is probably the reason the car won't start. When you turn the key to the "II" position (without starting the car), do you hear a whirring near the back seats? This is the sound of fuel pump attempting to build pressure in the fuel lines. If you hear this, the pump's working, but I have had Civics of this generation with working fuel pumps where I could not hear the sound.

If you're not sure if the pump's working, take out your spark plugs. If they smell like gas, it's very likely fuel is getting to where it needs to go. To make sure, crank over the engine. You should start to smell gas at the spark plug opening, which will be entering the cylinders through the injectors. If you keep cranking but don't smell anything, I'd start by looking a little closer at your fuel pump and also your fuel injectors.

To check your fuel injectors, use a stethoscope or a long screwdriver to make good contact with each fuel injector, one at a time, as a friend turns over the engine. Put on the stethoscope (or your ear against the screwdriver) and make sure the end isn't touching anything else besides the injector you're testing. When the engine is being cranked over, you should hear a definitive and rhythmic clicking. Make sure to test all four while you've got this set up. If none are working, look for a connector that may have come loose. Although not impossible, it's not likely that four injectors would fail all together.

If the injectors do work, and there's still no fuel going into the cylinders, take another look at the fuel pump. Make sure power is getting to it with a multimeter. If it is, I'd recommend a replacement. It wouldn't hurt to check your pump for physical damage or blockage if you're able. Seeing physical damage may make it more obvious that a new fuel pump is needed, and you may be able to remove a blockage depending on the type and layout of the fuel pump.

2.) You say you have spark, so the next thing to check would be air. Is there any chance the intake is getting clogged? Have you changed your air filter? Something along those lines could suffocate the engine and/or not let it start, and it may happen gradually. If everything looks clear, check your sensors. Try starting the car with the airflow sensors unplugged. If it starts up with a sensor out, you've got a shot sensor.

3.) Double check that your timing is correct. If it jumped a tooth or two (maybe it is too loose), you may not be able to get the car started at all. There are marks on the timing cover, engine block, and camshaft gear which can be lined up to ensure the engine is at TDC for cylinder #1. The alignment of these markers confirms the engine is in correct time. Bad timing could cause valves to not open at the right time, or close at the right time, and would make the car run poorly if at all.

4.) It's not likely that you lost compression on all cylinders out of the blue, but you may as well check it if you've got the plugs out and you're still stumped. I've seen horizontally opposed airplane engines run on as little as 40 PSI during a cold compression check, but most consider the minimum to be ~90 PSI. I believe the Haynes manual shows ~128 PSI as minimum compression before servicing is needed. Excessively low compression could cause the engine to not start, though it's not the most common cause.

Let us know what you find out.

 

so heres the update after countless hours and 2 mechanics looking at which one would be me in training we found out that some how some way they key somehow un programmes from the computer so we had to re program it. thanks again for everyones time and if this happens to someone else please pass it on.