Alright I'm gonna type a little because I feel this problem I'm having is pretty unique. Hopefully I'm wrong and someone out there has an answer.
So I have a usdm 93 cx hatch and swapped a d15b7 after the b8 pooped itself.
So basically the car runs fine, a little back fire and idles a little weird because I have a D16z6 TB.

My problem is SOMETIMES I go into "limp mode"? That's all I can describe it as. I'll drop the clutch and it'll dump off the rpms and won't accelerate normally untill I hit 4k rpms. I can fix it just by turning the car off and on but it's a hassle. I guess I should also note this happens especially after I decelerate from highway speeds (80ish)

If ANYONE has ANY IDEAS like at all please post I'm completely open to anything it's not a huge problem for me I just would like to fix it if possible.

 

Does the check engine light come on when you go into "limp mode"?

I'm thinking you may have an issue with the TPS.

 

Only occasionally but usually no cel, when it does it throws IACV. But I know for a fact my iacv is good so I'll try a new tps. Couldn't hurt! Thanks for your input Dax I appreciate it.

 

I am not sure how you "know" that your IACV is good... but if you replace yours with a KNOWN GOOD IACV (either a brand new Genuine Honda OE part OR try one from a friends car that works perfectly right now), and the problem persists, you may have an ECU or a wiring problem.

 

Okay you say you dropped in a B7 into your B8 car.... Did you swap the ECU or do you have a B8 ecu trying to run a B7 engine?

The Z6 and the B7 TB are the same. The B8 is smaller like the VX Z1 TB if I recall. So TB is actually made for that engine and should not be the issue.

ECU on the other hand........

 

Sorry I should've specified. The iacv is brand new. I wouldn't say I know its good unless I did. Also yes I used the b7 ecu it doesn't run rich or anything like that lol. I have swapped a couple engines I'm not like brand new to this. Also the b7 tb was 1.5 inch, the one I have now is 3 inch I didn't think they were the same because I got both tb off of stock engines. Thank you all for your input I much appreciate it. I'm definitely gonna try out a new tps sensor and check my electrical. I'll update shortly.

 

Make sure your TPS (either new or old) is about 0.45V @ 0% throttle and about 4.5V @ 100% throttle. If it isn't, adjust the angle of the sensor relative to the throttle plate.

 

Alright I'm back here. So I've installed the tps sensor and tried to calibrate it but I can't get anywhere near the 4.45 volts at open throttle and when it's closed I get 0 volts? Do you know what could possibly cause this?

 

Do you know how accurate your volt-o-meter is? If it's a cheapy it could be insensitive enough to provide accurate 0.45V and just shows zero. If it's a digital multimeter you should have it on the 20 DCV setting not any higher. And you can safely use the 2 DCV setting for the closed throttle 0.45V reading.

 

Turns out I didn't put the lever on the sensor in the right spot. Lol. Luckily I've figured it out! Thank you all!