Hey fellow Honda lovers!

I recently purchased my second 1992 Honda civic EG Hatchback. This one is an Si. The Si as im sure you know came with the Iconic D16Z6 VTEC & a P28 ECU.
The previous owner "blew" the motor and swapped a D15B7 into it, keeping the same Z6 Harness & P28 ECU. This motor was also in bad shape w/ many oil leaks.
I went to rebuild it because it fit my general budget better and my local machine shop informed me the crankshaft & bearings wore the block down so badly it wasnt worth a rebuild.
I made what I'd consider a mistake & went to JDM Hotline here in Arizona to pick up the only D series they had available. Heres my current position:

I purchased a JDM (RHD) D15B Dual Vtec motor from an automatic 92-95 Civic. Being on a tight budget I am trying to make a Z6 Harness & P28 MT ECU work with it.
I put my old flywheel & a new clutch on with ARP Flywheel bolts & my S20 5 Speed Transmission as the combo. I have the motor in the car all hooked up and ready to go.
I also changed the Alternator, Distributor, & Intake Manifold/Injectors out with my D15B7 to allow for the harness wires to match. I changed the motor & transmission fluids.
Then I tried to turn her over. The results have been nothing shy from disappointing.
It sounds like an old muscle car because its not even close to running right. Almost like its a timing problem, however the timing looks perfectly fine.
Im getting plenty of fuel, running rich if anything and the spark plug wires are matched up properly.
What could I be missing aside from a proper Harness & ECU? I found forums which said I could use this harness & ECU, just that it would run rich. I have read up on this in great detail but am only 20 years old and have much to learn.

Please reach out if you can give me some ideas. 4 weeks without a car is killing me. 2.6 miles each way in 105+ degree temps to work leaves me dead. F Arizona summers.
Thanks a ton, sorry for the long post!

 

I believe you need to understand how the motor works. It has both vtec-e and vtec.

The way vtec-e works is when it is not in vtec engagement, one intake valve per cylinder barely opens. When vtec-e solenoid engages the motor operates in 16 valve operation basically like a 16 valve non vtec motor.

Then the way the vtec works is when it is not in vtec engagement, the rocker arms ride the middle sized (non vtec) lobe. And when vtec solenoid engages it rides the larger performance lobe of the camshaft.

So to run it with a P28 ecu, you have to take the vtec-e out of the equation by manually permanently engaging the vtec-r solenoid so it is always in 16 valve operation. Then the ECU can operate the vtec portion normally. This will emulate a standard D16Z6 motor by removing the vtec-e portion of the motor.

I am not sure what depinning and repinning you will need to do on the harness to make it mate up as a D16Z6 obd1 engine harness. Nor do I know precisely how to manually full time drive the vtec-e solenoid. But basically that is all the things you need to do to get it operating efficiently on a stock p28 ECU.