I need help. Car: 93 EG OBD1 P28 D16z6

Car had run fine for a few years until it started stuttering around 3k rpm a week or 2 ago. I thought it was TPS so I bought one. The problem started going away and it throttled like normal without hesitation or stuttering. Then I was coasting at 20 mph and it stalled. Wouldn’t start up again and kept cranking. Pushed it into a safe spot and checked interior fuse box (forgot bay fuse box like an idiot) and no bad fuses. Had it towed home. Next day, checked bay fuse box and 15A ecu fuse was blown. I replaced it with a new one and the car actually started. And then died a second later. Fuse was blown again. Looked it up and saw that o2 sensors make the ecu fuse blow all the time. Then it all hit me. The reason I’ve had miscellaneous electrical problems a few years ago was because my car was wired for the AEM wideband to a Hondata P28 that was in it when I got the car with a blown motor. I swapped my d16z6 in and had only 1 CEL #41 for o2 sensor heater. I heard it puts the car in a safe rich map and have driven like that for years. But widebands don’t last as long as normal O2 sensors, correct? It must’ve been a few years past its prime and finally had a complete short that kept blowing fuses. I disconnected the wideband and the car started!

I got the car with Hondata s300 v3 (non-Bluetooth) and figured since it’s wired for it, I should just run that p28. I bought a new Bosch LSU 4.2 Wideband to go along with my AEM 30-2310 Wideband Controller that’s just been sitting mounted in the glove box. Started it up with the Hondata (uploaded the stock p28 d16 base map that it has, first) and it ran (didn’t drive it), but I had a CEL #41 still. I figured that I need to have no CELs if I want this car to be reliable, so I spent a whole day trying to figure out: why the code is still giving o2 sensor heater if the wideband is giving readings in Hondata that look correct as I rev through the RPMs, which wire should ECU A6 (O2 sensor heater) be connected to on the controller, what voltage A6 gives if the 30-2310 controller instructions say it needs 12v, etc.
Then I found out I could just click “disable O2 heater” in Hondata.... My problems would’ve all been solved and I could’ve started tuning.

Before I found that out, I switched the brown wire from the controller from ECU B2 to ECU A6 because someone on this forum said that’s the ground for the heater, not positive for the heater. Since the brown on my AEM controller is supposed to be “sensor ground”, I figured that would be how it’s supposed to be and get rid of CEL. After that, in Hondata, my A/FR went from varying a bit and seeming like real numbers (note I do not have a gauge) to staying at like 15.3; plus I now had CEL #21 in addition to #41. This is because when I opened up the ECU plug A, there was a lot of corrosion for ECU A4 (vtec solenoid I believe), and I cleaned it a tiny bit. So I gave up and called it a night. While researching last night a lot, I found out about the option to disable heater and today I tried that and put the brown wire back on ECU B2. So today I disabled O2 heater and started it up and only had CEL #21, but now even with my brown wire back at ECU B2 the A/FR is not reading correctly. At first it was moving around 14-16 and then stayed around 14.32 and 14.36. Then I turned the car off and started it and it was reading correctly for about 20 seconds and then stayed around 14.32-14.36 again. Now every time I start the car it’s 14.32-14.36. I can put a voltage offset in Hondata and get a different A/FR but it just stays around there. I measured the voltage between white wire (connected to ECU D14) and brown wire at ECU B2 and it stays at 3.00v or goes to 3.01v or sometimes 2.99v. I have correctly put in data points of voltage and A/FR from AEM’s instructions (https://www.aemelectronics.com/files/instructions/30-2310%20Inline%20Wideband%20UEGO%20Controller.pdf) and 3.00v corresponds to the A/FR I’m getting.

My questions:
- Have I messed up the brand new Bosch LSU 4.2 Wideband by connecting the brown sensor ground to ECU A6?
- Which ECU pin is the brown supposed to go to? (I have tried ECU A26 and it’s the same result.)
- Why is it 3.00v exactly that I’m measuring?

More information:
- I do not want to spend any more money (aside from maybe $20). I will simply plug my stock p28 in and wire an O2 sensor in correctly if I have to get a new controller/wideband for this to work
- White wire (Wideband signal) is connected to ECU D14, I am not going to put it in ECU D10 and remove the resistors inside the ECU. But I am willing to try other signal pins that do not require modding the Hondata ECU.
- Brown wire is at ECU A26 currently
- Black wire is ECU A23 and that has not been changed
- Red power wire is at ECU A25 and that has not been changed
- AEM 30-2310 controller blinks about 4 green Ready blinks for every 1 red Status blink. There is no pause and it goes for more than 30 seconds like the instructions say.


pls help