I was trying to replace the passenger side torque mount on my 98 civic and both nuts that are welded inside the frame snapped off. Now the bolts and nuts just spin.

I’ve read similar posts from people who had to cut an opening in the frame to access the nuts, but I really don’t want to do that. I don’t weld (to have the cut piece put back)

I was looking for other options that match my abilities.

Was wondering what would be safest to do that wouldn’t jeopardize integrity of the frame much:

1. Drill a couple holes just above the nuts on the side of the frame (wheel well side) or

2. Drill holes on the top of the frame under the air box to allow me to use a socket to remove/install.Or

3. Would using rivot nuts be better?

Problem is I’d still need to somehow remove the nuts inside the frame if I go the rivot nut option

 

You can actually get the nuts out (if you cut the bolt off) from the front without cutting any of the frame. If I recall, you have to take the bumper cover off and then unbolt the bumper bar to get access to the front of the frame rails. At this stage you can use a flexible grabber and grab the nut to pull it out.

After that, you can drill the hole a bit larger and use a rivnut and switch to the standard metric pitch bolt your rivnut is. I have never found a rivnut tool or rivnuts that use Honda custom pitches so new bolts will be required that match your rivnuts.

I have done this in the past when one of my torque mount bolts snapped the welded nut.

 

Nice. This is on the passenger side, are the nuts still accessible in the way you mentioned? I know this happens a lot on the driver’s side so hoping can still access them after cutting.

Also for the rivnuts, I could only find M10x1.5 where as the Honda bolts are M10x1.25. Should still secure the mount in place fine being a coarser bolt?

I’m hoping the bumper bar won’t be badly rusted in place leaving me with more of a headache. If I find it to be, would drilling holes as I mentioned in original post compromise the frame at all if I don’t fill the holes back up with welding?

 

I prefer not adding holes to the frame rails if I can help it. Losing material always reduces strength a little. You should be able to access the nuts on either side after pulling the bumper bar. You might do that first to see if you have the square holes up front that go into the frame rails before you cut the bolts.

Yes the M10x1.5 will be fine you will just need new M10x1.5 bolts with the same length to replace the stock nut(s) you cut. I would go so far as to do both on the side affected so you have matching nuts and not one OEM and one standard metric nut. I ordered Allan socket cap screws grade 10.9 from Fastenal as I was also putting aftermarket aluminum billet torque mounts on the car. If you are staying with the stock mount, I would just get the M10x1.5 in the same length as the OEM.

Worst case value is drilling large holes in the top of the rails for access, but I would say screw that and leave the nut and bolt remnants to rattle around in the frame rail before resorting to that. Don't have to get it out to do a rivnut.

 

Would the rivnuts be strong enough to hold the mount in place over time? I’d need to replace both nuts/bolts. I keep reading different opinions on using them for a mount. Some say they won’t hold, some say they should be good enough.

These are the ones I’m looking at:
http://170PCS M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 M12...HCJNGWAR6SXGM1

Or:
http://90pcs Stainless Steel Rivet N...ZYQHFZRDDAJYV3

 

Update:

Ended up removing bumper rail and there were two holes, one bigger than the other. I made a small cut between the two allowing just enough room to get a wrench on the nuts. But of course they stripped so had to cut the bolts from the mount side using a die grinder and cut off wheel.

Plan on using replacement nuts and bolts. It’ll be tricky holding the nuts in place through the small hole but I’ll figure it out lol.

Question, would I need thread locker? The nuts have a flange with teeth on them for locking. Not sure if that’d be enough for this application

 

My rivnuts are steel and they were fine. Those mounts don't take severe abuse unlike motor mounts. They do take some vibration but yeah, with steel rivnuts I didn't have issues. You can also add JB Weld before cinching them down and that will provide additional securing. JB Weld is a soft epoxy so will take the vibration pretty well and add just another layer of adhering. But you can try the challenging route of nut and bolt. Getting it off in the future will be a pita as well as re-install.

 

Did you use the special tool with the rivnuts?

The old mount didn’t look too bad so hoping won’t need to replace the new one for a long time if I even still have the car by then

 

Decided to go bolts down through the frame and have the nuts on the mount. It was a lot easier this way.



I couldn’t get the bolt from the transmission bracket to be more centered inside the mount. The mount had no wiggle room for adjusting and actually one of the two holes was too small. Had to bore it out a bit with a round file to get the bolt through it. How crucial is it to have the bolt more centered? (Pic before nut and washer installed)

 

Yes I used the rivnut tool. I bought one awhile back for the rivnut sizes I tend to use.

 

Hey guys, saw this thread was only a year old, had the same thing happen to me today, I was removing the torque mount on the passenger side, got 1 bolt off nice, next thing you know heard a loud bang on the second bolt, broke the weld nut (I love Canadian cars!!) anyways, I read people don’t run the mounts as they don’t do much, is it worth it to cut the frame and put those mounts on? Or just save myself and leave them off. I have an ek b18c swap. I went for a drive without the mounts. Didn’t have any vibrations.

 

They are "torque" mounts so they provide a stop for the motor as the motor torques on spirited driving. Less about vibration, more for making the motor mounts last longer by not over stressing them by over twisting of the motor.

Like I mentioned, I didn't cut the fame at all. I just retrieved the broken nut so I didn't have some random rattle and just used a rivnut. I think I may have had to swap my bolts for standard metric thread which is 1.5 thread not 1.25 on those size bolts.

 

I wouldn't sweat it, especially if you have somewhat recently refreshed engine mounts. Just leave the torque mount off.

 

Yeah I got 72a poly yonaka racing mounts, I think they should hold well!