I know you guys are probably tired of this. I got a weird one. Honda Civic CX 1997 HB D16Y7 automatic - crank, no start.

Work done: Resurface head, change valves, valve adjustment, piston rings/bearings, main bearings, new coolant temperature sensor, new spark plugs, oil filter, oil, head gasket, K&N stock air filter new.

I was in the middle of a coolant flush with Blue Devil, added Blue Devil and distilled water. Drove in on the street for about 45 minutes weather was 55F, went to Jack In The Box drive thru when I put the car in park to get my order, I felt it misfiring, then some light white smoke out the tail pipe. Drove the car out, parked it on the side, and the car died and stopped working.

Towed it home.
I have 155 compression over all 4 cylinders. Timing is spot on. Spark plugs had gas on them, due to probably when I was trying to crank it to start. Looked through the spark plug holes to see a little bit of gas, but not flooded. Battery 12.6V. Check the spark plugs, I have spark over all 4, however the spark is orange, not white or blue.
I tried cleaning the distributor cap and rotor. distributor cap was pretty dirty inside. Crank no start.

Compression check, fuel check, timing check, spark check. Now unless the spark is weak? What other diagnoses should I do? I'm thinking it's the ignition in the distributor, but I'm still thinking about why was there white smoke coming out the back temporarily as it was misfiring. Head gaskets new and machine shop resurfaced head, block was straight checked with straight edge. I can turn the crank over with a socket no problem. The car was actually running, and running great, and working until I wanted a burger at Jack In The Box. I'm hoping its not the head gasket.

If I check the engine code in the ON position. I get P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit – High Input malfunction, I changed the coolant temperature sensor the one closest the front of the vehicle. Is the the code for a different sensor? is this that small one on the left side between the coolant outlet and sensor I replaced? could that prevent it from not starting?

Also, it was not overheating when this happened, temperature was normal.

I am stumped! Please help. Thank you.

 

Why are you adding Blue Devil to a rebuilt engine?

Weak spark - Ohm test the distributor coil. Replace if out of spec.

P0118 - Voltage and Ohm test the ECT wires that run to the ECU.

 

Ok I will check those following, thank you. Prior to the project, oil got into the coolant system and the car was rebuilt without the block out of the vehicle, so that was why I was trying to initially flush it.

 

Ok, I have checked the ohms for the distributor coil and it seems to be within spec. The coolant temperature sensor wire was bad so I had to do some wiring, but yes it is getting 5V at the ON position.

I flushed out all the water in the system, changed the thermostat, and added 50/50 coolant into the system.

I got the car to start, but it cranked for about 30 seconds. Then I let the car idle, I revved it to get the temperature up to see if the fan would kick in and it did. After awhile the fan stopped because the temperature went down, but after about 20 minutes of running, I could slowly hear the engine dying...
and eventually it stops, and a few seconds after it stop, I leave the key in the same position, the radiator FAN kicks on and stays on until the vehicle cools down.

I cleared the code for P0118, but it seems to have reappeared again, it is a new coolant temperature sensor.

 

If the Red/Wht wire at the ECT connector reads 5V, then use a multimeter to test the Grn/Blk ground wire for an open.

 

Ok temperature sensor is good. However, I found something strange. When I open the coolant cap and attempt to start the car when cold, coolant is splashing out. This is a sign of bad head gasket?

 

Just updating this thread. Welp, it was kind of good what happened because I got to change the head gasket a second time. Not sure how the new first head gasket failed less than 20 miles driven, but changed the head gasket, used a coolant pressure test to make sure nothing was leaking while manually turned over the engine watching the pressure, hook everything up and it still didn't start. Got myself a new distributor and started right up the first try. Case closed.

Thank you for the help.

 

best to rebuild the factory original distributor if possible as the quality is superior.

https://www.team-integra.net/threads...ooting.342735/

 

Here's an easy to run experiment. Your fuel injection system pumps high pressure fuel to the fuel rail. In order for your engine to restart easily, there is a vacuum controlled shut off valve which keeps fuel at the ready for starting. It's failure is very uncommon, in 20 years I've only seen it twice. Both times no one had a clue, including me!

Testing couldn't be simpler. Before starting, or trying to, put a pair of needle nose pliers on the fuel return line. If it now starts, it's an easy fix. It's a long shot, but couldn't be easier to diagnose.