I have a 93 civic eg, the car has the factory 3040 prop valve. I put integra rear disk conversion in last week. My next thing to do is install the 4040 prop valve. My only question is, can i use a 96-00 civic 4040 prop valve? Its different shape but im installing all new lines and 3an fittings. My only concern is the shape of the prop valve being different. Would it work?

 

I did a ton of research on this topic a few years back. My conclusion was that nobody really knows what the difference in the prop valves is.

Since youre doing some new brake lines already, and you posted in this sub-forum, Im going to advise you to do what I did. Forget the OEM prop valves.



Link the 2 rear lines together in the bay and connect it to the adjustable prop valve, and connect the other side to one circuit of the master. Then link the 2 front lines together and connect it to the other circuit on the master cylinder.
Get it dialed in, and enjoy having 100% (or close to it) of your braking potential.

I would also suggest putting the valve in the engine bay. I think the temptation to adjust it while driving is asking for trouble. Its too easy to forget whats going on and turn it the wrong way and end up crashing. Make adjustments in between runs.

 

ive came across a few threads and people do say the ek prop valves work also the 94-00 integra i believe. I also did see people run the willwood valves in their time attacks cars also. How do you like it? Did you run ss lines or hard line?

 

An adjustable bias valve is really the way to go, unless you're racing somewhere that rules don't allow it. This will not work with ABS though, as the modulator works on a diagonal circuit layout. Without ABS it's easy: rear line out of the MC into the bias valve, out from bias valve to a tee fitting, then to the rear calipers.

 

thanks for the reply, i appreciate it. Ill be road racing it this year, last thing to do are my brakes. I also dont know what the track allows and dont allow. My car dont have any brakes lines in it with the intentions on bending all new lines myself as the car was previously tucked. I did want to keep a factory prop valve in the car so i dont run into problems later on with new tracks. 94-01 integra prop valves look much different than the factory 92-95 prop valve. I cant seem to find anything on any forum on this. If i could use a ek or dc non abs prop than ill do that.

92-95 civic 3040 prop valve

 

4040 integra prop valve. Just want to know if this will do the job in my 94 civic. I will be putting in all new fittings and lines.

 

The track doesn't care what you use- but some sanctioning bodies don't allow adjustable prop valves. So if whatever group you plan on racing with allows an adjustable valve, go that route.

 

Exactly this ^^^^
Know the "Sanctioning Body" you choose to run with CCR's in regards to the group or class of car you choose to run.
Their rules are king. Stray outside those rules, and you risk DQ or suspension from events if found in violation.
We are talking about groups like NASA or SCCA

 

I changed overt to the 96-00 prop valve on my '97 Integra, I was sick and tired of the leaky mess those stupid 2 piece valves can make. It was a but tricky to drill into the firewall and get a riv-nut in but its doable.
I'll get some pics in a sec.

 

ya man if you can do that i would appreciate it. Thats the same prop valve im questioning if i can use in my eg, the 1 piece prop valve that comes in dc integra and ek civic. I dont see why i couldnt use it because its a 4040 non abs prop valve. But wanted other peoples input

 

thank you, i will have to find out. Appreciate your input

 

I had to remove the studs that held the prop valve bracket I place and install rivnuts. I’ll get a pic with all the lines routes today.

 

so what you did was remove the prop valve that came in the car which was the 2 piece 1. ( Ill post a picture of it below ) you replaced it with the 1 piece 4040 i see. thats all i wanted to know. Is if there was any difference between the 2 besides shape thats it. They both do the same thing correct

 

Yep, thats it, and they function exactly the same way but not as messy. You would obviously have to make new lines as well.

 

thank you man, very straight forward how i understand things lol. Now do all year eks come with 4040s?

 

You sure about that?

 

They're both 4040 prop valves and are non ABS vehicles or ABS deleted vehicles, no strange issues on the street or track (HPDE) so yeah, I'd say so.
I take it you think they are different other than the physical design.

I've been wrong before, but only once.

 

I just checked part numbers for '00 EM1,'98 EJ8,'96 EJ6 and they show the same numbers.

 

exactly, yes i thought they were different other than the physical design. Maybe people thought i wasnt going to bend all new lines and run -3an fittings to the prop valve, MC , ect. So if posible if i could save 80$ and buy a 4040 ek prop instsead of the 2 piece 1 then im all about it. Thats why im asking. I hope this clears it up.

 

those props are also going on 25 years or more , are they reliable?

 

I’ve yet to see a 96-00 and beyond prop valve leak or go bad. it’s possible but not like the 88-95/97 units.

 

Wanna thank you all for the info , very helpful in motivating me to do this mod for my eg civic , especially Chuck who provided pics of the mod. Here's a few pics :



I was not going for a show car mod, I wanted to just update my prop valve because I do use my car almost like a daily. A few 8 inch lines and 3/16 inch double flare unions from the local auto parts depot , a lot of bleeding and feels great. Yes those are zip ties holding it to an original prop valve tread with a nut, the brake lines are hard steel and have very little flex so prop valve does not really need to be braced to the firewall. I bought several line benders and the cheapest 8 dollar one was the best. My fear was that these lines would not be kind to bending , however, they are very manageable with patience and attention to detail.

Now for those of you wondering about the original prop valve on eg's I decided to take mine apart clean it and provide pics of how they look like inside :









Based on simple engineering , they seem to act more like small oiled shock absorbers with ports that allow fluid flow. If you guys ever had a paintball gun, the striker or bolt often go bad due to worn seals and thus scratching the barrel = same thing here. I suspect if seals go bad the barrels start getting scratched and brake fluid goes to what I believe is a part of the pistons where it should not be and that is why they leak thru the weep hole. I actually bought the seals to repair it , I saw some people on you tube reseal these with Danco seals (kitchen plumbing seals). I know that brake fluid will eventually eat that so I did some research and found out these seals are EPDM. Since the guys that did this with rubber kitchen seals provided the Danco part numbers and measurements, I did some research and found a site where I could buy the proper ones for this fix, see pic below for site and part numbers :




the site is Oringsandmore.com , went ahead and bought some automotive grade m6-1.0x25mm bolts because the guys fixing them were using home depot bolts. I got them longer because when you undo the tamper proof torx screws (originally on the prop valve) it feels like they mess with the treads on the way out. the replacement bolts do feel like they can hold but I also added nuts after reinstalling the new bolts to guarantee safety. here's a pic of the finished rebuilt :



Conclusion : this valve can work, but just wanted to update the prop valve so it is easier to replace in future if needed due to availability, if anybody wants this rebuilt 30/40 let me know...
BTW = ek prop valves stamping is waay different , the one I installed is marked h4cM and the one Chuck installed and shows on his pics has other stamping and ends with an E. If anybody knows what car type mine came from and if it had rear disks, please post. If anybody can investigate ek prop valve code stamping would really help us all.. Best!