I brought the car as it is around 4 months ago. I've been daily driving it and beating on it regularly with 0 issues. I have no lights on the dash and recently passed inspection with 0 issues. The only thing is that because it has the d16y8 ecu, redline on the car is only 7200. It kills the fun at high RPM after reaching redline soon after I hit vtec.

I want to increase my redline to stock b16a2 levels. I just dont know how to go about it. Do I chip/tune the current ecu or can I just buy 1999-2000 civic si ecu and do a direct ecu swap? I have no clue how to go about it.

Also my current ecu is P2P-A31

Current ecu

 

The easiest way is to buy the 99-00 civic SI ECU. It should be plug and play.

 

Not in a '98 EX. You will also need an OBD-2A -> OBD-2B adapter harness.

 

Many thanks. Have brought the p2T ECu and harness. Will see what happens in a week after it arrives.

 

If you plan to keep the engine stock, the hot ticket would be to find a 96-97 Del Sol vtec ecu. 37820-P30-A01 or A02. It will plug straight in with no issues.

I don’t think a 99-00 ecu is going to be happy with your 96-98 fuel tank/emissions stuff. Pretty sure you will get a code or two.

 

 

Agreed. Unfortunately, those ECU's didn't grow on trees, so finding one might be a significant challenge. There will be some emissions related codes if you use the '99-00 Civic Si (P2T) ECU.

 

Your right. I forgot about the OBD2a and OBD2b issues.

 

It probably doesn't really run that great with the P2P ecu in there. The calibration is all wrong, not just because of the 7200 fuel cut.

If you are planning on doing anything to the engine other than just driving the thing, and it runs okay enough on the P2P to pass smog, skip the P2T just get yourself into an OBD1 conversion and your favorite flavor of engine management (Hondata S300, etc). Then you can have a little fun and still drop your stock ecu on for inspection.

 

Alright so I just recently finished with the ECU swap. For the people that this thread may help in the future:

I ended up getting a P2T-A11 ECU and it works fantastic. I got 0 codes, no check engine light and the car actually feels like it has a bit more power. Did a small burnout test to confirm if it actually had more power and it definately does feels a lot stronger. It also revs to 8000 RPM.

Make sure you get the OBD2A to OBD2B conversion harness if you deal with a similar ecu swap. If you get OBD2b to OBD2a it will not work (learn from my mistakes).

 

Neat. Good job!

did all of the readiness monitors set?

 

All monitors good.