Wanting feedback on crankshaft pulley removal hack
So I need to replace the crankshaft pulley on my 1991 Prelude. I know your suppose to get it off using the Honda special tool but I have seen a few hacks at doing it without it and I have decided to use the hack where you jam a pry bar in between the flywheel teeth to stop the crankshaft turning. I saw someone do it on YouTube but where the pry bar was inserted to wasn't shown. It looked like it was inserted into this hole...
https://ibb.co/L1F455G
I can't see flywheel teeth through that hole and I can't find anything in the manual about the flywheel... now that I think about it, I have seen it in the manual but it could have been in the section for a gearbox. I have an automatic transmission.
I am lost because I can't see the flywheel teeth. Can anyone provide feedback?
https://ibb.co/L1F455G
I can't see flywheel teeth through that hole and I can't find anything in the manual about the flywheel... now that I think about it, I have seen it in the manual but it could have been in the section for a gearbox. I have an automatic transmission.
I am lost because I can't see the flywheel teeth. Can anyone provide feedback?
Last edited by Kolusion; Apr 17, 2021 at 02:21 PM.
You don't have flywheel teeth. Automatics have the teeth on the ring gear which is part of the torque converter that is bolted to the flex plate.
I highly advise against doing this. There's a good likelihood you will damage the teeth and cause a lot more problems for yourself.
Get the tool or just use a strong impact to get the bolt out. Sometimes a little heat can help get them loose easier. The threads of the bolt also need to be oiled when reinstalling.
I highly advise against doing this. There's a good likelihood you will damage the teeth and cause a lot more problems for yourself.
Get the tool or just use a strong impact to get the bolt out. Sometimes a little heat can help get them loose easier. The threads of the bolt also need to be oiled when reinstalling.
Damn, just as I suspected! Are they accessible some how?
Yeah I know it's not the best way to do it. I was going to have a look at the size of the teeth before I went ahead doing it. If they were too small and had a good chance of braking or bending I wouldn't do it.
Thanks for the advice. I don't have a strong rattler and getting one isn't an option. I have to work with what I have.
Yeah I know it's not the best way to do it. I was going to have a look at the size of the teeth before I went ahead doing it. If they were too small and had a good chance of braking or bending I wouldn't do it.
Thanks for the advice. I don't have a strong rattler and getting one isn't an option. I have to work with what I have.
Last edited by Kolusion; Apr 18, 2021 at 05:58 AM.
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Thanks, but getting an impact wrench is not an option.
Now I am looking at doing the hack where you shove nylon rope down piston 1. Does anyone have any feedback or advice on this?
Now I am looking at doing the hack where you shove nylon rope down piston 1. Does anyone have any feedback or advice on this?
Ok, so I have read that a lot of people have been having success with the rope hack. I have also read many people warning of bending valves. I have read a few people say that valve damage can be mitigated by checking if the valves are open by listening for air coming out of the spark plug hole with the spark plug out when lowering the piston.
I just watched a video on the relationship between valves and pistons to get a better idea of it.
I see that the valves open every second pass of the piston lowering. So, I need to get my piston in the lower position at this secondary pass.
I could try the listening out way and I guess I could remove the valve cover to check as well but I am not keen on doing that as my valve cover gasket leaks badly and removing the cover and putting it back on will probably make it worse.
Does anyone have any other ideas on how to check when the valves are open?
I just watched a video on the relationship between valves and pistons to get a better idea of it.
I see that the valves open every second pass of the piston lowering. So, I need to get my piston in the lower position at this secondary pass.
I could try the listening out way and I guess I could remove the valve cover to check as well but I am not keen on doing that as my valve cover gasket leaks badly and removing the cover and putting it back on will probably make it worse.
Does anyone have any other ideas on how to check when the valves are open?
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Does this engine rotate counter clockwise like the F22B2 in my 96 accord? If so, I had success in removing the crank pulley bolt by using a BIG extension on my breaker bar and rotating the engine so that the extension was just touching the floor (I work on jack stands in my driveway, lol) and then just bump the starter to get it broken loose. I know this is not the recommended way, but it saved me from buying the special tool, and it worked when I had exhausted 3 other "heavy duty" impact wrenches. One of these wrenches was a 3/4in. Mac tools with a claimed 800 ft.lbs. of torque in reverse. Again, this is a very dangerous way of doing it, and I would definitely suggest buying or renting the special tool, however, it worked for me, so...🤷♂️
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