Just picked up a B16B to swap into my 97 DX. I'm sending it to the machine shop tomorrow for an oem rebuild. I may use a 2 layer headgasket but besides that, I'm rebuilding the engine to stock specs unless someone convinces me it's worthwhile to port match the intake to the head and do a 5 angle valve job while retaining the stock cams and only slightly raised compression. It has the factory ported head and all of the original valvetrain and original cams.

The only modifications I plan on making are to the air intake and header.

Based on research, I've read that the Toda header is best for this application, but I am not looking to spend $1500 right now. Maybe in a year or two but for now I'm looking for something sub-$600. Would love to hear about peoples experiences with the PLM Toda or the Skunk2 headers or any others I may not have heard of.

I've also read that an SRI is the way to go. I wanted a more oem look so I was going to get a comptech ice-box but it seems like they aren't produced anymore? If anyone knows someone who carries them I'd appreciate a link. Otherwise is ebay just the way to go here? And is a velocity stack worthwhile if I'm still running a filter?

Also would love to be sold on adjustable cam gears. I'm doing the project with my dad and he thinks it's boy-racer but I've seen many people recommend them.

Car is going to be tuned at Xenocron in Suffern, NY - if anyone has experience there I'd also appreciate any input.

 

Use a OEM head gasket!

Purchase ARP head studs dont use the OEM head bolts.

Skip all the port and jazz on the head and stick with a OEM spec rebuild,

You dont need adjustable cam gears especially if your using the stock cams.

Grab a Toda replica from 1320 performance best bang for your buck.

If you want a bit more mid range power use a short ram, or if you want a higher power band go with a cold air intake. AEM and Injen are the only ones that i know of who make a true 3'' cai intake for the B series. Or go autoworks may be able to make you a custom intake or offer one for you. Just a use a quality K&N filter!

 

thanks for mentioning 1320. I will have to check them out.

Is there really a difference between an AEM or Injen versus something like this on ebay if i go sri? I am not a fan of how close the filter is to the ground on the cold air intake offerings.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Short-Ram-A...cf46%7Ciid%3A1

 

Not really, 3" piping is 3" piping. Just use a quality air filter like K&N

 

any benefit to the velocity stacks people talk about?

https://www.bpi-us.com/product-page/...act-filter-kit

 

Use the Icebox and get yourself an oem Integra R intake tube. Nice and quiet and oem looking.

both are available here: https://www.heeltoeauto.com/

 

awesome, thank you. this is exactly what I was looking for

 

No problem. Sorry my predictive text made a mess of my post. Edited.

 

Anyone know if this water line (I assume it was a water line for the turbo) goes anywhere or if it can be plugged?

 

Take the T fitting off and re install the OIl pressure sensor.

 

Thanks. The previous owner screwed up the thread and put the fitting in on a 45 degree angle. I'm hopeful that the machinist can repair it.

 

Yea they can re tap it if anything.

 

Have them crack check the boss too. They crack really easily when someone does that, and it doesn't show up until you get the engine running. I've successfully had them welded and redrilled/tapped in the past. FYI, the original thread is 1/8 BSPT, not 1/8 NPT. It's a difference of 28 threads per inch instead of 27.Just enough to mangle the threads if you put an NPT sensor or tee in.

 

thank you, I just talked to him and he doesn't have any british taps so I'll just run an adapter fitting if I use a bspt sensor.

 

Also, if anyone here runs a high-flow cat that they like, I think I'm going to be running one behind the header. I don't need to and I could get away with a test pipe but I plan on driving the car pretty frequently and would prefer to not smell like gas. I plan on running a header with a 2.5" collector and a 2.5" exhaust. I'm not sure if I'll need a test pipe to weld the cat into or if I can just weld it to the catback. Is there a specific size/length I should be looking for that would fit, or should I just plan on having the exhaust shop add more piping off the cat?

 

Magnaflow 441036 is my preferred converter.

 

thanks. A little pricier than I'd hoped but what project isn't? lol

I'm not sure you'll know this but I just ordered plugs (BKR7EIX-11) and was looking to get cables and a cap & rotor.

I was on JHPUSA and they listed the B16A and B16B as the same cap & rotor, but I assumed I'd need a B18C/1/5 cap and rotor? I'm assuming they just have a typo unless I'm mistaken

https://jhpusa.com/products/honda-di...nt=40337242260

I was also going to go with NGK wires since they seem to be cheaper than OEM for basically the same part.

 

“Federal” converters are cheaper but are garbage. California spec converters are more expensive because they are required by law to be better quality parts. I used them even when I lived in Florida. Look up the price of an oem converter and your sticker shock will calm down a bit.

I use Denso oem replacement plug wires. They are cheap, fit, and look better than the NGK wires in my opinion and will last a long time. The NGK wires are excessively long.

 

I think I might just end up going with a test pipe for now. If I decide I want to throw in a cat later I will. Just trying to get the car swapped and running for now.

Any recommendations on a catback? Was going to go with the Yonaka 2.5" but it looks like they're out of stock. The 70mm Skunk2 is out of stock until October too. I like the Tanabe Medallion and Apexi WS2 but I'm worried 60mm is too small.

 

60mm is plenty for the vast majority of NA b series builds. The WS2 is a fantastic product.

You may also be interested in the newer GReddy systems:

 

Thanks, I will probably end up with the Tanabe/revel unless someone has the WS2 in stock for a decent price. A lot of distributors are showing them as back-ordered or they're in stock for $700.

I need to think about getting more maintenance parts soon. Namely, injectors. My D16s are too small and the previous owner of the engine was running 1,000CC's. I hear people like RDX injectors so I need to look into that more, or I gamble with a set of ebay remanufactured OEMs.

Also need a clutch. I think the Exedy KHC12 is the correct replacement. There is also KHC05 but I think I recall reading that the KHC12 is an upgraded version of the KHC05

 

I bought KHC12 for my Integra, really no complaints about it.

 

thanks, that is what I ended up going with. rockauto had a great deal and 1 left in stock!

 

Does anyone have a recommendation on a crank pulley? I cannot find a stock one (I believe the OEM part # is 13810-P73-J01). Mine is chipped from when the previous owner removed the engine from the car, and I'm assuming I can no longer use it. The chip is on either the ac or ps rib so I'm wondering if I could get that removed and then get it balanced?

I saw the N1 crank pulley but it doesn't look like it does any dampening? The car doesn't have A/C or PS so I'm not worried about those belts. That being said, it's a street car and I don't want to worry about the alternator being under charged and I don't want the possibility for damage to the engine. I just want something safe for the car. I guess I could use a GS-R unit? They look like they're similar except for a few oz difference in weight.

 

it's getting there. cams are in now too, just don't have a picture. I did not have the tool to adjust the valves so that's the next step.