hey can anyone help me..... i just changed my front brakes and bleed them too.... but now im having no presure..... does anyone know what might be wrong?? i pushed a million times and i put new brake fluid in.... any ideas??? thanx

 

well sorry to say this but you didn't really need to bleed them.
1 - So you fully compress the piston?
2 - did you have a hose from brake line to a cup of brake fluid and did you pump the pedal and spit out all the bubbles??
3 - A healms manual really helps
4 - lines are conected proper like with no holes or leakage?

awnscer these and we can troubleshoot it

 

You did put some Antiseeze compound on teh inner pads (one that the piston touches) right?????????

 

i think i compressed the piston..... i pushed it all the way back (if thats what you mean)..... i didnt put it in a cup but i pumped all the bubbles out while it was still off the line..... i dont have a healms manual ..... and yea all the lines and holes are together..... F*CK im not sure if i put the antisqueeze stuff that they gave me on the passanger side brakes.... would that be my trouble too? thanx for the help

 

It's been my experience that ppl who type in all lower-case lettering aren't very good at doing anything expect shooting their 'mouths' off - asking ppl for help (usually an emergency), then arguing with them when they offer it.

As the guy said above, you shouldn't have bled your brakes. On top of that, you probably fucked it up doing it yourself.

If I was you, I would take it to someone that knows what they're doing, but you will probably make the wrong choice there too.

Sorry, dude, but basically you're screwed.

BTW - Nice 'handle'...

 

OMG!!! I'm a dick sometimes!

Hey, bro, did you try to bleed your brakes by yourself? This is impossible unless you have special tools. It isn't just a matter of opening up the valve and pressing on the pedal "a million times."

I'll see if I can find a 'how-to' for you...

 

Here you go:

http://www.carcentral.net/content/re...stem/index.cgi

Sorry for the rant...

 

Ok disregard that pratz.

Ok so bleeding the lines is not the easiese thing to do. Actually it is a pain in the ***.
Im not expert but, ok you need to run a line from the bleed nipple on the back of the calaper down to a bucket of brake fluid. Bleeding the lines or drainging them and hten refilling them leave bubbles in the lines. So you take that tube connected to the nipple on the back lower part of hte caliper and run a rubber bleed line ( they sell them at pepboys ) to a bucket of brake fluid and have a buddy pump the brakes. Do this for each side WITH THE BRAKE RESAVAR CAP OFF!! So the bubbles will escape and the system is not pressurezed. Since you are doing this you might as well apply or check that you have the antiseeze compound on that right front calaper. You only need to remove that lower bolt from the calaper and the whole outter assembly swings up. Make sure you put the retainer shield back on the outer pad (little metal plate). Dab a little compound on it for good measure.
do this, BUY A HEALMS MANUAL when you go get that tube. Like it exlains everythig for your car and your setup. + its a civic and teg manual so it has both setups when you start swaping out teg parts. Worth the $15

YOU DIDN'T **** ANYTHIGN UP!! So don't start to spaz out.

Message me when you get back or my AIM is L1smarrow I will be here at work till 8pm CST

 

O tight read that link and refer to what I wrote. The "bleeder screw" is on the inner lower part of the caliper. I believe it has a round rubber part. Use only mm sockets i.e. like on the lower bolt of hte caliper u use like a 11mm. k

 

Listen to the pratz. Don't use anti-seize compound!

They make special lube for brakes, like Permatex Ultra Disc Brake lube. Every auto parts store carries something like it. It'll only cost you around a buck for a single-use size.

Anti-seize compound is great for steam fittings, and such, but it will glue your brakes together when it gets hot. Disc brake caliper lube is good to over 7000 degrees.

Here's a link:

http://www.permatex.com/auto/autouc....&item_no=20355

 

well there are different kinds of antiseeze compounds to use. Use the one for brakes.
The pratz did have a point!
this is amusing....

 

LoL! I love the ppl that put anti-sieze compound on spark plug threads in aluminum heads. 50,000 miles later, they go to install new plugs and the threads come out of the head right along with the plugs.

So, what do they do? They complain it's the fault of the spark plug manufacturer. They say they didn't overtighten the plugs when they were installed, and they used anti-seize compound, blah, blah, blah. They don't realize it's the anti-sieze compound, so called, that glued the plug to the threads.

Anyway, this is OT, but indicative of why you DO NOT want to use anti-seize compound on brake calipers...

 

Yo im just quoting Helmes. High temp antiseeze, in black and white.........


The Dude has spoken...

 

I didnt use anti-sieze compound on my brakes when I changed out my pads, and now 15,000 miles later the brakes are still working just fine. Not saying anyone is right or wrong just saying for me it dosent matter if it was on there or not.

 

i think its more of a better to be safe than sorry kinda thing... no one is right or wrong...

 

Yeah, okay! Have fun guys. I'll enjoy reading your posts later about how you totalled your rides when the brakes failed and it's Honda's fault.

I'm outta here...

 

Um werent you the one saying not to use the anti-sieze compound?

Yeah that was you.

Anyway, I did use the brake disc caliper lube, I just didnt use the anti-sieze compound.