Hi all,
Same 98 Accord that has the remote start issue. We've recently noticed that the engine sometimes has a stutter while accelerating, kind of feels like it's hitting the rev limit. It only really happens between 45-65mph, and usually only if it's a quick acceleration (pedal 75-100%). Already done some investigation into possible exhaust or transmission involvement. I haven't done a drain and fill in the transmission in awhile since it maybe sees an hour of driving time a day and certainly hasn't even seen 20k since last, but the fluid up top looks good. Exhaust has a small amount of backpressure only when engine comes back to idle as seen on OBD2. No codes for exhaust or transmission. The car does have a new flex pipe and air intake tube, as both were cracked. These were replaced before the issue arose. EGR was cleaned and gasket replaced after the issue arose. Seems to be better since then, but it still has some issue. The only other things I can think to mention is that the sound from the muffler has a ton of bass in it (definitely louder than when I first got it) and also an unburnt fuel/exhaust smell comes up just after the engine is turned off. Any advice/ideas are appreciated.

 

For stuttering, I would probably start with some basics just to cover them and make sure the fundamentals are good with the system. New plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Then clean the injectors.

Next I would check the fuel pressure to see if the fuel pump is getting weak and not able to deliver the goods when accelerating hard.

Unburnt fuel is what has me thinking you should check there first.

While there at the injectors, check for fuel leaks or other little things like that, loose wires like a ground as well.

 

I suppose I'll be going to get a pressure tester today as I lost mine awhile back. Haven't pulled injectors on this one, but I did on an 02 civic so shouldn't be difficult. I do have one odd gray wire in the engine compartment that I've always wondered about. It seems to come from the passengers side and wrap around the firewall, all the way up to the hood on the other side. It is wrapped around some weird looking bolt with a spring in it that I've never seen before on a car. Not sure what it is, but the bolt is rusty and the wire doesn't look great. One question with you recommending fuel pressure. If the gauge test doesn't show anomaly, and only shows while under load, could it be an issue with the strainer and not the pump itself? Only asking because I've never really done any fuel work besides lines and filters on a few domestics.

 

I actually have one more question. I was looking into cleaning the iacv, just for the heck of it. Haven't done it yet as the heads of the screws holding things in are just crumbling with a screwdriver. I don't see any issues with fast idle on cold start, and not much but a slight idle flutter when warm, between 650-750 rpm, and infrequently at that. Is there some chance in hell that the iacv is opening under load? It's a farfetched idea, but while this car has been a tank, issue resolution has never really been straightforward.

 

I hear you. I suppose it couldn't hurt to clean the IACV, I just think unlikely. that's why I was thinking to go with some basics first. For all you know, the plugs gaps are too big from being old plugs, crack in a wire, etc. I just like to get those out of the way with a car before I start tinkering with other things. But that's me.

 

Oh, and yes a clogged filter might be affecting flow. It's also cannot hurt to change first if you see there is a flow issue. But I would drive and test first before replacing anything so you have a baseline.

 

Sorry, forgot to mention. Distributor is new, plugs and wires have been changed within the last couple years and all look good. I suppose I could pull them and do a spark test. Valve cover gasket has been changed since I got the car, vtec unit is new. There is an oil leak, I think from the pan gasket. It gets low every so often, but the oil level doesn't seem to affect the stutter.