Hopefully I’ll be able to explain my end goal for a civic 92-00 hatch that I’d like to buy when I find the right one. Most importantly I want it to be a clean stick shift.. but I see a lot better taken care automatic hatches so might get that and do manual conversion. I want to start off with the original motor in the car, and I think most all the hatches I’ll find are non Vtec besides the eg si... which means I’m basically gonna end up starting with a d series non Vtec. I’d leave everything pretty much stock if I had that and eventually Vtec would be cool..(don’t think I’ve ever driven a Vtec/DOHC b series civic) so my final end goal, would be to do an extremely simple and minimalist b16 complete swap. If one day I get to the point of doing a b16 swap what would I need to keep the car reliable and handling similar to stockish. Radiator? Wider or bigger tires? It don’t care if it’s lowered. I see so much extreme projects that are done to the civics and not sure what is really needed for a simple b16 minimalist build? Like headers/ cold air intake/exhaust , is that stuff Necessary or will the original car parts work fine? Every times I see information about the engine swaps it always about the engine, but I’m just concerned about the overall car that it’s going to become if that makes sense.

 

Basically I’m interested in something that can be considered close to what would come from the factory of Honda... Two examples 1. like d series stick hatch- I’d enjoy that completely as stock and do almost zero upgrades (besides manual conversion)
2. b16 swap in hatch, obviously civic type r had a few additional upgrades like weight reduction (don’t care to do all that) different wheels. But they also did other stuff to keep the car handling properly with the extra hp of the b16... so what are those things I’d need to do to simulate my version of a “bootleg” type r?

 

• Changes from the standard Civic included stiffer, progressive-rate springs, stiffer front and rear anti-roll bars, and a tower brace, which contributed to a flatter-cornering ride. It was available with a five-speed manual transmission only, the exhaust was upgraded to a 2 1/4 inch to reduce back pressure, standard equipment also including disc brakes all around. Aesthetic exterior changes from the LX/EX trims were minimal, with the Si trim package featuring a lower-profile and wider 15-inch wheel/tire package. (This is a few things on Wikipedia describing the em1 si coupe. Which is along with the ek9 type r something I’d be happy to create something similar to with a stock usdm hatch.) clears up some of my questions.

 

Buy a clean B16 swap from a reputable company (HMO?) and install it. Get a swap with as much of the OEM parts/accessories (exhaust manifold, etc.) - it will work fine. Upgrading to a slightly larger exhaust may be a good idea. The B16A isn't a crazy amount more power than a D16. The D16Z6 put out 125 hp, the B16A2 put out 160 hp. You don't need any additional upgrades to handle 35 additional hp. The B-series engine and transmission weighs ~100 pounds more. Your past post is just marketing jargon - don't read too much into it.