I am at the end of finishing my b20 vtec low boost build. Block has been decked, bored .5 over and hot tanked. Head has been resurfaced. All new gaskets. Low compression nippon pistons along with eagle rods. New bearings and piston rings. Stock head with new valve seals. Everything has been done to spec as much as possible.

I finally got to torquing the arp studs last night. I tried previously but the middle exhaust side was difficult to turn by finger so I finally chased the threads until I was able to turn the stud by hand.

I started torquing in sequence. 20-40-60-80 pounds was the plan. When I got to 60 though, I started with the middle one and it snapped and spun before getting there. I had to walk out of the garage from the disappointment. I have spent so much time and money on this build. What should I do? I really don’t want to buy another block since I have spent so much on this one. I know b20s are weak but I’m in too deep now. Just will keep the boost low for a fun reliable ride...
Is this fixable or am I SOL?

 

After a quite a bit of searching and panicking and going through the motions, I realize that I need TimeSert to fix the thread. I’ve already spent more than a year on the build what’s a few more weeks? Ugh. I almost just wanna helicoil it and send it. Off a cliff.
I’m calling my machine shop later and seeing if they do this work.

Anyone have a kit they would like to sell or rent?

I only torqued the studs to 40 pounds. Can I reuse the cometic head gasket? Its still new, never been used. Maybe spray it with copper spray for good measure?

 

I've heard multiple times as long as the head gasket hasn't been heat cycled (run) you can still use it.

 

This is the correct repair.

Yes, torque isn't what ends the head gaskets re-usability, it is HEAT. As long as you do not run the engine, the head gasket can be torqued over and over again.

 

Be aware, the Time-Sert tool kit for head studs is about $500 - I bought one this year. If you have the kit you can do the repair in the car though, with the head removed. Take your time - I spent probably an hour doing the first hole on my block. I used painter's plastic and tape to cover everything in the engine bay except the hole I was working on to keep aluminum chips out of the engine. You can dig through my thread in the Forced Induction section for pictures of me doing the repair...it was around July or August of this year.

If you can't find a place that will do it for you and you can't stomach $500, I know some folks have used a heli-coil kit to repair their head stud threads, and it is much cheaper, but I believe it is an inferior repair to Time-Sert. It may be good enough, though? Send a message to @Txdragon - I think he used a heli-coil.

 

Thanks for the referral DaX. Ive sent him a message, If he could give me some pointers I am willing to try it out. Also I ran into this website that rents the kithttps://www.automotivespecialtytool.net/search.php?user_id=108&username=WheelPowerRacing which sounds like a good idea since I am not sure if all the threads will hold up to being torqued to 80 pounds. If I was for sure certain that I only need one repaired then I would say the letting the machine shop fix it would be easier. But the fact that they dont want to estimate makes me iffy since i have to take it there and then what if i need another repaired after that? I am leaning towards this kit. Anyone have experience renting the kit?