I recently bought an 88 CRX with a D16Z6 swap. It turns over but doesn't start now. He said it has a new distributor and injectors. It's been sitting for 3 years. Before that, the previous owner said it would start and run for a short time and shut off. From the little research I've done, i believe this also requires an ECU swap. The one currently in it is a PM6. Could this of been the reason for it not running well before it sat? Also if it does need a P28 ECU would I also need an OBD adapter? My mechanic won't be able to work on it for a few weeks and I'm trying to troubleshoot and learn as much as I can. Any help would be appreciated.

 

It should run with a PM6, but not sure how well. You definitely won't have VTEC with that ECU. Yes, a P28 is the correct ECU to use with the D16Z6, and yes, you would need an OBD0 to OBD1 adapter harness as well as an OBD1 distributor.

Put the key in the ignition and turn the key to the ON position. Does the check engine light turn on and then off after 2 seconds? If it doesn't come on, your bulb may be out. If it does come on and stays on, you need to figure out what the CEL is on for. Regardless of the status of the CEL, peel back the passenger floorboard carpet and look at the small window in the center of the metal kick plate - there is a plastic window that lets you see a small red LED in the ECU. If it is flashing, count the number of flashes. If multiple codes are stored, there will be a longer pause between codes. Keep writing down the # of flashes (codes) until you see the same codes come through again.

 

maybe you did some of this already but didn't mention- cover all the basics first.

-you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on?
-gas in the tank is 3 years old? it's been a while, but i remember a fuel drain plug in the last CRX I worked on. best to dump and start fresh
-you have verified spark?
-you have verified mechanical timing?
-there is some indication of fuel spray when trying to start? (smell, fuel on spark plugs, ect.)
-no loose wires, especially ground connections on the engine, no loose hoses or obvious missing components? check under dash at ECU too.

 

Dax, Thanks for the info. I checked for the check engine light. It did not come on at all so probably blown. As far as i could tell there wasnt any lights blinking on the ECU. When i put the key in it does sound like the fuel pump is turning on and the relay sounds like it's clicking. I was thinking about renting a fuel pressure test next. I Dont know anything about checking or setting the timing. Ill have to look into that.

 

Hondamark, Thanks for the reply. I did some. I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is turning on. I hear the relay click when I turn the key on as well. I'm thinking of renting a fuel pressure test to check to see if it's getting fuel. I don't know much about the engine. I know what timing is but not how to check it or set it. There are some cut wires by the distributor. No idea where they might go. I was looking into a way to drain the tank ill have to check for a drain plug.

 

• 92-95 Civics - Mechanical Timing

'92-'00 Civic FAQs - Frequently Asked (Tech) Questions

lots of good, useful info in the links above that will apply to your engine.

 

Wow. Thanks. That's a lot of useful info. I drained the gas and am going to check the timing today. I ordered the right ECU and harness adapter. Just waiting for the parts.I think i got a pretty good idea of what im doing. Ill let you know if i figure any out.

 

Update. After putting the car in time and putting on the correct distributor I got the car to start on carb cleaner. I got 40psi of fuel pressure at the filter that I just replaced. So im assuming its either the injectors or fuel rail or the ECU? Does that sound right? The previous owner mentioned that he replaced the distributor and injectors when he tried to fix it. He had the wrong distributor so I'm assuming it has the wrong injectors. I deleted the resistor box and it seemed to do something. It will fire for a second after I prime it a few times. Any suggestions? I do plan to turbo it so i ordered a 255 fuel pump. So I plan on replacing that this weekend although this one seems to be working.

 

It could be other things. You're sure the ECU is not flashing any codes?

I had a similar issue before with a bad MAP sensor. The ECU did not throw a code because the sensor was giving a value that was within range, it was just wrong. If I remember right it was reading full vacuum (~29 in-Hg) when it should be reading ambient pressure (~0 in-Hg). I could get it to start with ether, but could not keep it running on it's own until I changed the MAP sensor.

You can use a noid light to see if the ECU is triggering the injectors to fire. If you want to verify the injectors are actually firing, you can unbolt the intake manifold from the head but leave all the sensors, fuel hoses, and injectors connected. Have someone crank while you visually look to see if the injectors are firing. I actually did this but used a spare manifold and moved my injectors/fuel rail over to it while everything else stayed on the manifold bolted to my head. It was a pain but it was the only way I could think to verify the injectors were actually firing.

 

I think the ECU might be bad. I tried to force it to throw codes and got nothing. I opened it up and it looks corroded on top. The soldered side looks fine. I planned on replacing it anyway. A new one will be here Monday I ordered a Map sensor as well just in case and it was cheap. Can't hurt to have a backup. I started taking the fuel rail off to check the injectors ill finish that tomorrow. But my spark plugs smell like gas so I think they are working. 3 of them look new. I appreciate the help.

 

Shes running strong. The new ecu did the trick. Thanks for all the help.