Hello this is my last ditch effort to rectify this problem, I have a 95 civic lx sedan all stock with 206k. When you start the car no issues, After 2-3 miles of driving , check engine light comes on and you have to keep your foot steady on the pedal at higher rpms, Once the rpms come down, and you press the gas then it feels like its bogging. Once I bring the car back home ( put it in park) and I bring the rpms up slowly, it runs rough like its misfiring. But at idle their is no misfire. Let the car sit till the next day and the exact same scenario occurs. I thought I fixed the problem with a very dirty throttle body which I used amsoil power foam. Drove the car 2 weeks without any issues. Last week however it occurred again I was frustrated and I pulled over, turned it off then back on and was fine. Something reset and was no issue till 20 minutes later. Something is heating up as I can see, The check engine code from the flash sequence from the dash ( shorted connector to get code) says Crankshaft position sensor which is in the dizzy, I replace the dizzy about 6 months ago for a no start which cured the problem. On another note it is due for a timing belt. Could a timing belt stretch when hot and cause the check engine light to come on? I also swapped the main fuel relay to no avail, and the fuel filter was replaced 4 months , But why only when it gets warmed up is beyond my technical boundaries. And the timing is dead on . I even advanced and retarded the timing just to see if the problem went away. It is back to stock spec timing. And just one more thing, take it on the highway, set the cruise to 70 no bogg issues until it starts to climb hills. crazy problem Thank You

 

CEL code 4?

If so, test the CKP wires for a short to ground or open from the two CKP pins in the ECU connector.

 

Happy Thanksgiving to All. Update all connections look good. But I was blogging this forum and tried something, As I held the throttle steady at 3K, and the motor was still hesitating, I tapped on the iac ( one near the firewall) and the hesitation went away for 3 seconds then came back. I replaced the IAC and the hesitation is gone during acceleration, but now after it warms up, the idle surges up and own which points to the fast idle iac. So I took apart the fast idle and rotated the white plastic wheel clockwise to seat it. It still is bad. I guess I will take it off the car and inspect. Another odd situation is if I plog the top hole in the throttle body, the idle is normal pointed to the iac I just replaced.

 

Use the service manual procedure to adjust the idle speed. Then go from there.

 

Disclaimer, I don’t know very much at all. This is thought could be completely useless but I’ll give it a shot and get flamed for it.

Lot of miles, issues when it is hot, having to force the rpms higher to keep it going. Could the catalytic converter be clogged/melted enough to let some air pass through but not enough to keep it smooth?
Are you burning a lot of oil which could cause some issues down the exhaust line?

Alright, let me have it dudes.

 

You can disassemble the FITV and get a better clean on it . Then go back and turn it the whole way down plus half a turn back.

DIY - https://www.team-integra.net/threads...r-fitv.105367/

side note i know its a stretch but try bleeding the coolant.