Can't get my car to start, been at it for 5 months. 5th gen lude
Hello all,
I am coming here as I need help. I have been trying to get my car to start for months and still it wont run.
I have a 5th gen prelude with an obd2 h22a swapped in. I have a rywire conversion harness, obd1 distributor (td61u) and obd1 (P28)computer.
I took the car out tuning and the next morning the car coughed and then would not start. It just cranks. I have spark, compression, fuel pressure at rail, injectors are getting the signal to open (confirmed by noid light), confirmed mechanical timing is correct and that the engine is pulling in air.
In most recent events I noticed I can get the car to cough, not run, if I spray starting fluid into the throttle body with injector unplugged. However, if I then plug in my injectors and try cranking the car normal it DOES NOT even cough. This leads me to think it is a timing issue since there is fuel pressure and injectors are getting the signal to open.
If anyone could please offer suggestion on where to go next that would be incredible. Running out of things to try and could use some input from others.
I am coming here as I need help. I have been trying to get my car to start for months and still it wont run.
I have a 5th gen prelude with an obd2 h22a swapped in. I have a rywire conversion harness, obd1 distributor (td61u) and obd1 (P28)computer.
I took the car out tuning and the next morning the car coughed and then would not start. It just cranks. I have spark, compression, fuel pressure at rail, injectors are getting the signal to open (confirmed by noid light), confirmed mechanical timing is correct and that the engine is pulling in air.
In most recent events I noticed I can get the car to cough, not run, if I spray starting fluid into the throttle body with injector unplugged. However, if I then plug in my injectors and try cranking the car normal it DOES NOT even cough. This leads me to think it is a timing issue since there is fuel pressure and injectors are getting the signal to open.
If anyone could please offer suggestion on where to go next that would be incredible. Running out of things to try and could use some input from others.
-took car out tuning
-coughed and wouldn't start
Hmmmm. Seems to me the logical place to begin would be the last thing that was changed before the issue, aka the calibration in the ECU.
-coughed and wouldn't start
Hmmmm. Seems to me the logical place to begin would be the last thing that was changed before the issue, aka the calibration in the ECU.
I tried an original file which was used initially as a base tune to start it. Original untouched file yielded same results. I appreciate the input man
Removed valve cover and set the cams at tdc by inserting a pin through the holes that align them in that orientation. Checked and timing mark on the crank was right on
Spark, fuel, compression, correctly in time. Assuming no hard CEL or dead/mixed up sensors, It should fire if the ignition timing and ecu calibration are remotely close. If you're confident they are, have someone spray starting fluid in the intake tract and crank it with the throttle held wide open.
To be honest i have no clue what the ignition timing is. I rearranged the rywire harness that adapts the obd1 distributor to the obd2 harness. The shop i had work on the car had the crank senaor from the dizzy plugged into my cruise control and had the obd2 crank sensor still pligged into the harness. No clue how the car ran tbh cuz that sensor isnt supposed to work with the obd1 p28 ecu. Because i have it wired correctly now, the distrobutor clocking matters. I have tried to position the distributor the same as it was before this all started.
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On the H22, you need to check the timing via marks on the cam and crank gears, they do not have holes to align them at tdc like the H23A1 does.







