Ok guys so im new to honda, but not nieve. I just picked up my first honda; its a 2001 accord. It is a dx model according to title, but changed around from previous owners. It has jdm f23a vtec motor in it and automatic transmission. There car runs ok but its just sluggish. When i started to dive into the motor i noticed the vtec solenoid wasnt connected (jdm doesnt have oil pressure switch ever i was told) when I looked under the dash at the ecu (obd2b) there was no vtec wiring on pin b12 for selonoid and c cant remember off the top of my head. Now the motor has compression, no misfires, and tranny shifts fine. It has a short ram intake, deleted resonator, and generic barrel muffler on what clearly lools like original piping. I have 2 questions im assuming are simple for all you honda gurus.
1. What ecu or ecus can I pick up to safely run vtec. I know with the jdm if its a usdm ecu i trick the ecu to think the oil pressure switch is hooked up. Also unfimiliar with honda immobilizer. So any help would be greatly appreciated.
2. Now ive tuned a car or two in my day and have swapped ford motors, nissan motors, and dodge motors as well as transmissions. But is there anything that I should pay clise attention to with this motor.

Thanks severe for your time and consideration.
typo

 

I'm puzzled because I have a seen a few posts talking about this tricking of the ECU. I did the JDM swap as well to F23a (mines a 99 with a 2001 accord JDM motor now), and simply moved over the oil pressure switch and whatever else was on the old motor and am using the USDM original ECU with no issues. So I didn't think you needed to trick if staying within the ODB-II family. Maybe on an older one, older series, or OBD-I ?

About the immobilizer, if you have ay issue, I would just put in a bypass so you can use any key without issue and also don't have the non-start problem.

This shows you where to do it:

This gives more details
http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...556h_10-04.pdf

And here's a bunch of them for sale, no more than about $20
https://www.ebay.com/p/732562238

Other than that, I would check the O2 for laziness because that can cause some sluggishness when they get old. Once you hook up the VTEC it will also feel more repsonsive. And of course change your tranny fluid.

 

Thank you so much, yea it looked like previous owners wernt up on fluid changes. Ive changed oil, tranny fluid. The p.s. was siezed so deleted it( toy so not much street driving) and looped the lines. Not hard to drive it at all. Cant wait to see what the motor is like with vtec, its not bad even without the vtec.

 

Welcome! I am new as well. I was a tuner in the Toyota world, so Honda is taking a little getting used to. I like how guys work together though! What arena did you come from?

 

I started with Saturn Motorsports, then a few others after they moved and left Saturn. A few local clubs in San Diego and Los Angeles. Im at Willow Spring International Raceway currently.

 

Saturn? remember 6th planet? I was on there getting some tech help on a turbocharged 99 SL2 Saturn. Another speed density offering. I used a SAFC to enrich the turbo..Those were the days.

Good times. I could never prove it was adding the fuel with the SAFC..

Here is a pic, Acura wheels!

 

Nice i ran 00 sl2 I did all motor but if motorsports offered it i had it cai, big bore t.b. obx type r header, his exhaust nology hot wires, plasma booster, stage 2 clutch. I loved my saturn and am trying to find one now but twin cam stuck shifts are impossible to find. My only comp. Any other 4cyl short of the sr20det and blow out 4g63 were no prob. Keep me posted on the build and ill throw some old pics of mine on my phone and show you.

Yes this is import blasphemy reppin GM on a honda site but I got love for all makes and models.

Lol my first car was 89 ford probe gt so i love the underdogs

 

Whoever swapped the motor i think he left the origonal ecu in because the vtec selnoid wire was not wired in and there was no wire on the harness (b12 selinoid & c10 for pressure switch. I can't find my ecu on any list so im a little unsure if its vtec or not. PAB-A54. A for U.S. so i know it's not same ecu from motor, 5 for automatic. Im assuming its a non vtec due it was originally a dx model.

 

isn't the vin number stamped on the block somewhere? I presumed that's how you would decode it. I don't have the same block, but I have the block stamp on the front, then there is an engine sticker on the side, and finally a vin stamped on the back (I think I got underneath the car to see that one). Then you can decode to see what you have.

 

If the A1/A4 engine was just dropped into a DX car(originally a non VTEC A5) then there would be no wire harness or pinout from the PCM for VTEC control.
The immobilizer may be reprogrammed with the new(correct) PCM, dealer can usually do it. Dunno if they may balk at the engine swap. You will need a PCM for an 01/02 AT EX if you are running an F23A1. If it's a JDM import the engine will probably just have F23A cast into the block. Look at the water outlet facing the radiator, look below that, there will be a ~2" square pad that should have a large 'F23A' on it. Left of the front engine mount.
Or you can be ghetto fabulous and just remove the anti-theft daughter board mounted inside the PCM. It will allow you to start the car without the chipped key needed, but it may throw the CEL.
Not really. Some early F23s did have a porous block issue. Leaking oil and coolant.
Verify valves are correctly adjusted, change the timing belt at the correct intervals, change oil. That's about it. These cars are Legos.
None of that wannabe Quad4 Saturn BS and 'ingenious' ignition system.