Here's my single jingle project that everyone scoffed at me for. All my 350z and subu buds said "why?" Well once I chase down my ground fault I'll show then why lol 244 who @6100 rpm and the fuel pump fuse went and hasn't had spark yet. Now I'm looking to move into new territory from boosted. I nabbed me a nice winter and rust free ep3 and wanna to a moch type r and go naturally aspirated high como ratio high rpm like 8.5 to 9k range. Naturally the b18c7 would be the holy grail for this but now I'm sort of lost here. No I'm not copping out to a k20 for just numbers here it's about the build and there's enough k20 swaps it's just boring! So I'm torn between b18c series block over bored and sleeved but you can't go higher then 82mm and that sucks for displacement.... Or the b20c or b over bored to 85mm probably sleeved but I don't see anything about 11.5 comp ratios on here. What motor outside of k would have highest gaines at a real high screaming comp ratio... I also have read about a b16 getting like 12k rpm and still gaining power maybe that's the route... Either way it's getting gutted and I don't wanna drop 2k on a bare block more like 800 is my limit 1400 if already bored and sleeved.


Specs up top
Ek.gen 6 she'll from Washington almost 800k on the frame lol
D16y8 74mm overbore
forged internals sleeved block bough from.a shop complete not sure brand on crank and pistons or rods
Arp head stud
Walbro pump and injectors 550cc
Stealth exhaust
Pushing 28psi boosted with stage 2 prl full kit (came off an Integra actually cought fire)
p28 ecu chipped hondata
Just got all recaro seats except the driver it's a mochcaro lol and a momo wheel
Skunk 2 prt suspension with asr stabilizationUpgraded to ceramic disc brakes and steelie 1/4" lines all around.

I can't take credit for all the work I'm a body guy whose a Honda nut and knows nothing about mechanics. I bought this car partially completed with papers on the motor and just trusted they were legit. Fuel and brakes and lines were done and the turbo parts were in the trunk... So I finished the build and can't get it to run. No time to chase it down and besides it's winter and I got the logistics of figuring where to slide a condenser in. I'll take input on that build too... Popped a fuse on the dyno just the fuel pump fuse nothing else didn't backfire nothing.... Crank is fine cps and como and all fuses fine... Swaped the distro and tested componets for continuity all good... All solid connections yet absolutely no spark. I'm thinking is a ground wire fault as I found no ground on the tranny and the popped pump fuse. You smell fuel and it turns solid also had like 160lbs for comp. Haven't really looked into it much...


-back to the original post sorry for the side track-

Right after I posted this I thought omg what about the preludes h22? It doesn't have a high rev but that's changeable I never see those built.

 

If you sleeve B18C block you can go up to 85mm bore.

 

there is a thread stickied in the Hybrid/Engine Swap sub-forum all about this. it was a popular option before the K20 existed.

 

Its interesting ive met lots of people that start with a turbo d series and want to go Na. Trouble shooting your car...hmmm. Does your fuel pump prime when you turn the key? If not change the fuel pump master relay that is normally a common problem. Its either fuel, spark, or compression and since your running a d series your engine harness shouldnt be modified too much but then again your civic has many miles on it. A inexpensive na route is a b20vtec with nippon teflon coated pistons and skunk pr03s, ebay tri y header, and a healthy 230whp is common on pump. If you keep the turbo d series throw in a cam and go e85 with a flex fuel sensor to keep it simple. Or if it were my car a h2b h23a bluetop with pro1s would be a torque monster and the same price or maybe less than a built b20vtec. Keep the block stock and reving the h to 8-8500k or as high as 9k with a b16 trans 4.4 final drive..very very fun.
Engine grounds are very very important i had a ecu go in limp mode on the freeway with a ineffective transmission ground and lost all power. Sounds like your a better mechanic than you give yourself credit hopefully you fix the problem. Your checking continuity with a wiggy/voltmeter youll find the issue.