Hi everyone hoping someone here can help me. I have an accord with the k20z2(same as k20a6) I know this car is drive by wire which I've no experience with but low in revs the throttle response is awful, its fine up top. I'm assuming it's the same problem but If I'm moving off slowly, give it a little rev and out the clutch itl start moving but say I have the clutch half out and it need more revs pressing the accelerator does nothing. I have to either put clutch all the way back down or leave it out all the way. I've never experienced this in a car before.
Even in neutral you can't give it a couple of quick blips of the throttle unless you rev it fairly high as it won't register half of the presses.

 

Bump

 

This may be normal believe it or not. I'm not saying your doesn't have any problem at all but the '03-'12 Accords were the first of the Hondas to have Drive-by-Wire and they were notoriously slow to respond. I had an '03 Accord EX Sedan with the 2.4L K24 and it was the same as what your telling us. I could intentionally blip the throttle real fast when idling in neutral and get almost zero engine response.
Without getting into custom electronics modifications or buying an aftermarket "pedal controller" (which I'm not aware of any for your car), theres not alot you can do.
If you don't have any check engine light with codes than I'm thinking you just have a car with a first generation Drive-by-Wire throttle and it sucks, sorry bro.

 

North American (US and Canada)
2003 -2005 4 cylinder Accords did not have drive-by-wire throttle system; so, it had a cruise control actuator cable on the throttle body.
2006 - current 4 cylinder Accords were drive-by-wire and did not have the cruise control actuator cable on the throttle body.
2003 - current 6 cylinder Accords were drive-by-wire and did not have the cruise control actuator cable on the throttle body.

 

Oh wait thats right, my '03 was throttle cable actuated, not drive-by-wire.
So it was '06 and up that had drive-by-wire.
He said his car has a k20z2 so that '06-'15 Accords.

I did find a pedal programmer made by Pedal Commander for the '06 and up Accords, they make a model for the '13+ Accords, '08-'12 Accords & the '03-'07 Accords.
Its called the "Pedal Commander PC22 Bluetooth (Honda Accord)" it's $299.
It has four adjustable control modes with 9 different settings for each, it basically plugs into the circuit for the drive-by-wire pedal and uses internal circuitry to send stronger and/or modified signals to the factory ecu.
You get programmable, adjustable pedal response that will remedy the slow response and allow further customization. For $300 I would say its a little on the pricey side but worth it for a car that has a super slow pedal response.
Heres the link: Pedal Commander.com - PC22 Bluetooth - '03-'07 Accords

 

Thanks for the reply. It's an 06 and definitely drive by wire. If that's how it's supposed to drive it really is shocking😱 it ruins the whole driving experience of the car. I've driven more modern cars which I assume have dbw and didn't really have a problem with them other than rev hang on gear changes being annoying but I'm sure you'd get used to it. Thanks for the link 300 is a but steep at the moment but if we end up keeping it long term I'll end up doing some modifications to it and I might look into it. Is it something that can be tuned if I was to get it on a dyno do you know? Or would I have to get the controller. Was hoping it would be something simple and cheap for now

 

The pedal controller is plug & play. It says it has four different "modes" with 9 different settings for each, giving you 36 different options. It has four preset "modes" like economy (slightly less responsive pedal) and sport + mode for a quicker response. Within each mode is 9 different adjustable settings so you can most likely change initial response, partial throttle response, full throttle response etc.
From what I've read these things really do work. They allow you to ramp up the frequency of the pedal's electronics for more initial response and they are just plug-n-play so no voiding of warranty or damage to the car and it can easily be removed to revert back to stock.

 

I know I’m late to this but the pedal programmer does not fix this issue. Honda just really sucked when they did this.