Ok have an 06 accord 3.0 has around 230,000 miles well just put new timing belt kit on 5,000 miles ago. New water pump,tensioner pulley, tensioner, idler pulley,and timing belt.Also replaced crank gear and cam sensor. It was throwing code for cam sensor. So 5,000 miles of normal driving and cruising down interstate boom dead. Had it towed home tore it down and belts broke it 2 spots. All pulleys water pump turn fine no slack in them.the crank was at tdc the front cam was lined up but back cam was behind bout 1-1 1/4".Just wanting to know what y'all think.Idk but noticed tensioner itself seemed harder to compress than I thought it should. All I had to compare it to was the one that had came off the last time. Was thinking tensioner was not going in giving belt enough slack and broke it.Any help would be appreciated. God bless to all.

 

What brand TB kit? did you inspect the belt, was it in good shape - old and new one?
Do you have apic of the broken belt?

Since it's a v6 - i assume the car is garbage now, with over 200k miles on it?

 

From what I've read the 3.0L V6 in the '06 Accord is NOT an interference engine, meaning when the timing belt is removed and the engine's crankshaft or camshafts are rotated (any # of times in any order) there is no way for the engine's valves to contact the face of the pistons. Basically with the intake or exhaust valves fully opened by the camshafts, the pistons do not travel high enough upwards to contact the valves.
Your engine should still be good. Did you replace every idler, tensioner pulley etc.? I had a 2000 Subaru Impreza with the 2.2L EJ22 SOHC motor that had one of the idlers seize up due to a bad bearing and caused one of the cams to jump a few teeth, it bent valves. The idler that seized was actually toothed, as in, had teeth that rode in contact with the teeth of the belt. Hondas don't usually have toothed idlers.
Figuring out what caused the belt to break is pretty important. Timing belts, especially new ones don't typically break after 5,000 miles. It sounds like it actually broke the belt not just slipped on the crank or cam so it's not likely that there was oil on the belt causing a slippage of the belt off the idlers or gears. I would carefully turn the camshafts by hand or with a wrench on the cam gear's securing bolt to ensure there is nothing keeping them from rotating freely (careful not to loosen the bolts and re-torque after). The crankshaft you don't have to worry about so much since it is the drive to the cams, water pump etc. not the driven. If something in the cylinder head and valvetrain caused one of the camshafts and its gear to suddenly stop turning while running, it could cause the belt to break. Things like a wrench or socket left in there or an extreme failure between one of the valves and it's guide. Also ensure the idler, tensioner idler & water pump still rotate freely. Carefully inspect the inner, toothed side of the belt as well as the smooth outer face for signs of wear or friction.

"What brand TB kit? did you inspect the belt, was it in good shape - old and new one?
Do you have apic of the broken belt?

Since it's a v6 - i assume the car is garbage now, with over 200k miles on it?"

I too would want to know the brand of the timing belt, idler, tensioner idler & tensioner. Also pictures of the belt would be good as Eugene1979 said.