But once I turn the ignition off the engine light blinks five times. I thought this was due to my car not in readiness mode. But I read that if it goes out normal it’s ready. So why is it blinking five times. I change oil spool and oil. I have a new Honda map sensor. If it’s my map sensor then It will be the third one in less than 100 miles. I am having issues getting smog done. Due to driving expired tags I’ve paid registration and insurance but I haven't smog due to this error no codes when scanned

My car is practically new I just haven't driven it a whole lot

 

I think we need more details. What year car? Is there an engine swap involved here? What were some of the last things done to the car (I don't know what an Oil spool is in your post, did you mean a filter?) What engine is in it? auto or manual?

With out any real details, guesses are:

possible voltage issue at a fuel injector
bad cat
loose connection at fusebox
bad ground or no ground somewhere
bad ECU

 

Sorry I should have mentioned it’s a J30a V6 I’ve replaced just about everything with new upgrades. I get 5 blinks when I turn key to off. Mil shuts off right away on turn on position no codes when scanned. The oil filter spool housing with new VTEC sensor and solenoid was replaced. I haven't driven the car 100 miles yet. The first time I took it to smog it passed but he failed me for headers. I took the headers off and put the paper weights back on. Boom I get engine codes for those sensors and solenoid. Runs good everything smooth except can’t get ready of ob2 test only one sensor is showing so maybe that’s a possibility. I really don’t know right know I’m in process of flaking the whole car old school. With the stripe in flake as well. I have to figure this out or I’ll never get to drive. I swapped my original for same JDM engine made the changes manifolds etc. had some complications like water seals busted antifreeze pouring out. Thought they sold me bad engine. I also found that the throttle cable can really take you for a ride. Not much different than ignitions issues. Loss power etc !

 

CEL will not randomly blink codes.
Unless you have a jumper wire installed, and even then it would just constantly blink out the codes or leave the CEL on. It would not randomly spit out codes at shutdown.

At prove out with ignition switched to II(ON) the normal warning lights should come on. D4 will illuminated for a moment as the Main Relay activates the fuel pump and when no start occurs it will shut down the fuel pump as well as the D4 lamp. Rest of normal warning lamps should stay on. At startup the various lamps will go off, Oil, CEL, ABS, TCS, etc. Seat belt and door lamps are independent and will only illuminate if the belt is not buckled or the doors are open.

The five blinks are NOT codes that the PCM is spiitting out.
Verify any and all changes done to the vehicle first. Even something mundane may be the reason for the 'code' to spit out.
Verify you do not have any OBDII code readers or dongles plugged into the OBD2 port.
Verify there are no wires frayed or jumpers stuck into the front or back of the OBD2 port.

Most monitors need to be set before you can smog the engine. Go for a ~100mile drive cycle, to get the monitors checked off. Current smog law tests do not allow for a vehicle that has just had its memory wiped to partake in the test.

If the car was painted and/or the engine was removed, you will need to verify the main grounds are correctly attached. With clean, tight connections.
Right side of engine bay rad support behind head light will be a ground cable from rad support to engine.
Left side of engine bay rad support behind head light will be a ground cable from rad support, to battery terminal, and main negative cable down to transmission.
Left side of engine bay, inner fender to transmission bonding jumper cable.
Left side of engine(transmission side) near one of the fan thermo sensors will be the main engine harness ground. Verify it is not loose/damaged.
Verify all cables are clean, solid, no corrosion, eyelets are clean, and bolted tight to clean threads. Using a dab of OX-Guard or similar anti-oxidant to aid in conductivity and corrosion protection are always good.

Verify pins and connections to the sensors and wire harness are not damaged, corroded, or loose. Same with wiring. Verify connections are good and tight.

Verify there are no alarm/security/immobility devices wired into the OBD2 port or or wiring.

Again, no codes will flash automatically, you will either need to jumper to access OBD CEL blinking codes or an OBD2 reader to read actual P#### codes.
CEL will illuminate if a fault occurs. If a hard fault occurs the CEL will stay on.


Quick theory, there is some kind of alarm/security device that is wired into the OBD2 system which causes the CEL to pulse at shutdown.
Or
Ignition switch(electrical) is sloppy and is allowing some kind of make/break when rotating the key to I(OFF) or Lock position.

 

damn Mad Mikey I wish you were my neighbor I am still a the ready properness mark. Once the paint is completed and the windows installed with everything else’s I took off I will scan it to read oxygen sensors. Last time it was running I was only getting reading for upstream. I have driven the car approx 57 miles since I finished mechanical. I took another look at the smog check and the guy rip me off. It says not ready and he tested me anyway and failed me for headers but said passed except visual. Which is bogus due to oB2 not ready. I did change the sensors but used one I had already for downstream. ( that may be the ringer) as far as up grades I have cool air intake all new vacuum everything except the Japan engine I replaced original with. Found the oil filter spool to be smaller and gave me problems. Glad I saved the Japanese I just had to put new sensors on and new solenoid and rewired the clip that got busted when removing. So it all worked beautifully. The five blinks is our big question. I will do another scan because I had no codes just f blinks on key turn off. All lights norm when turn on they all make their show for a few then off .

 

Good News
I like the color of your car!

Bad News
I can't really help you. I did take a little time to do some research, but found nothing new.

I hate to say it, but you may have to make a check list of everything that needed to be done for the work you did to function correctly. Then go over that list and check everything. No matter how small or how dumb you would have to be not to have noticed it or to have messed it up.

I helped a friend do this once. Turned out to be an intermittently bad coil.

We made a list of things to check and posable parts issue. We bought replacement parts for all the possible suspect parts and started swapping them out one by one. When we did the coil, bingo car would stay running. And yes the bad coil tested as good.

Don't assume that you did things right. We are all human.. And humans seem to be really great at doing amazingly dumb things without realizing it. No matter how smart they are, or how good thay are...