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Hey Ya'll,
I've been lurking around the forums but this is my first post.
I am currently rebuild my 95 civic hatch with a b16a swap. I've got the engine in and about ready to start but I want to make sure I've got all my connections hooked up correctly. I referenced the engine harness connector thread for the engine but was wondering if there was something similar for the main interior harness. I have figured out most the connections but I want to make sure I have everything. Also I know that there are certain sensors and connections are mandatory for the engine to run. Can anyone tell me what they are. I believe them to be, the MAP, IACV, Crank, AIT, Injectors, Dizzy, the various grounds, and alternator. Did I miss anything?
Thanks Everyone!
okay so I went ahead and hooked everything up how I thought it should go. Tried to start. At first main relay started rapidly clicking, turned it off. Turns out the thermostat ground was loose. Fixed that turned key again, no fuel pump, no dash lights, no starter. I picked up my phone to do some more research and looked over the harness some more and then I noticed my p28 ecu smoking. Quickly turned everything off and unhooked the battery. I think I may have had my iat and evap purge solenoid connectors swapped which caused resistor r135 to begin to burn. From what I can find this is a resistor for auto transmissions which I don’t have so hopefully my ecu isn’t totally fried. Hooked everything back up and still no lights, no starter, no fuel pump, no crank.
I’m going to go back over all the grounds tomorrow and verify those. Afterwards I’m going to recheck and make sure I have the right plugs going to the right sensors.
If anyone has any input that would be great.
Also I should mention that before the rebuild I think the ignition switch may have been going bad anyways. It would sometimes work and sometimes I would have to jumper the starter after turning the ignition to run to get it to start.
I can hear the main relay and the engine bay fuse box click when turning key to 2. When turning to three I get another click from the Engine bay fuse box
Main relay is good
fuel pump is good
car cranks now
I still have no power to cluster and my fuel pump doesn’t prime when turning the key
only issue I can see one the ecu is r135 is toast. Would this resistor prevent the pump from priming
As far as the cluster goes, is the ground on the right side of steering column still good?
R135 is for the A/T interlock i believe and I don't know if that would affect anything else electrically. The ECU controls fuel pump priming..so if there is something wrong electrically either in the ECU or the wiring between its gonna have a problem.
As far as the ground by the steering column probably not I don’t see anymore grounds that need hooked up but I haven’t hooked one up to the steering column. I have a feeling I’m missing a connector or section of harness or something
The engine harness is one piece and connects at the shock mounts of both passenger and drivers sides. Even if you left something unplugged off a sensor, that wouldn't have an effect with the exception of the starter.
Major ground points are negative to chassis, trans to chassis, valve cover to chassis, thermostat housing to engine harness, A ground block on drivers side near headlight (for washer, cruise, etc.), a ground block on passenger side near headlight (for AC, horn, etc). (Sounds like you have those covered.)
Your dash harness is connected on the top of the interior fuse block. There is a ground block on the drivers side foot well connected by a 10mm. There is also a ground on the steering column mount...it looks like a male spade terminal. (it may be hard to see).
Here, I pulled out the manual. Hopefully these help you.. Grounds Engine Harness Engine Harness Connectors Drivers Side Accessories Passenger Side Accessories Dash/Console
I get power to fuse 24 and 31. Both fuses are brand new. I get power to plug by fuel pump. I get power to 1,3,5,7,8 on main relay. I get power to a7 on ecu. If I turn ignition on with fuse 31 pulled out then plug it in afterwards I hear main relay click on then off 2 seconds later.
still no cluster or fuel pump.
If I didn’t put it it’s a 95 cx with a b16 swap. P28 ecu. Car was running before I pull the engine for rebuild with this exact set up. Pump fires when hard wired to battery. I am so frustrated right now!