1995 Accord Crank No Start
I posted about this car last year but other things came up so I haven’t had any time for it until now. I just started rechecking things like proper fuel pressure and spark which are good. It still runs off of carb cleaner. When cranking the tachometer doesn’t move at all and I am still getting no injector pulse. I have tried a different ecm and a new aftermarket distributor. It has a good battery and connections are good. Thanks
No injector pulse, but are you getting voltage to the injectors at all? Can you verify they are grounded?
check continuity to the injectors to see if there is a broken wire somewhere.
check the ECU to see if it is even sending out a signal.
check continuity to the injectors to see if there is a broken wire somewhere.
check the ECU to see if it is even sending out a signal.
I am getting power to each injector and the wiring from the injector resistor to the injectors are all good. What do you mean by check if the injectors are grounded? Like on the body of them? Also how could I see if the ecm is putting out a signal? Thanks
Don't the injectors have a constant 12V and the ecm controls the grounding of the injector for the pulse? May be I am wrong but I swear that is how mine works.
In addition, the O/P already had a previous separately thread inquiring on no injector pulsing, where I already replied to the O/P that the ECM control how the injectors operate via the ground (-) side. :https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...lsing-3342245/
Yes, that is correct.
In addition, the O/P already had a previous separately thread inquiring on no injector pulsing, where I already replied to the O/P that the ECM control how the injectors operate via the ground (-) side. :https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...lsing-3342245/
In addition, the O/P already had a previous separately thread inquiring on no injector pulsing, where I already replied to the O/P that the ECM control how the injectors operate via the ground (-) side. :https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...lsing-3342245/
Here is a video explaining how the ECU sends the ground pulses to the injectors, and testing for the pulses.
Although there are different ways to test if the ECU is sending the ground pulses, if you want to use noid lights, they are usually available at local auto parts stores for around $25 and up; on Amazon, about $18 and up.
The ECU need various power (+) and ground (-) sources to function properly. If the ECU is not sending the ground, you may have to start checking various power and grounds that go in and out of the ECU.
Although there are different ways to test if the ECU is sending the ground pulses, if you want to use noid lights, they are usually available at local auto parts stores for around $25 and up; on Amazon, about $18 and up.
The ECU need various power (+) and ground (-) sources to function properly. If the ECU is not sending the ground, you may have to start checking various power and grounds that go in and out of the ECU.
Last edited by tech8; Aug 6, 2020 at 04:59 PM. Reason: typo
Trending Topics
Here is a video explaining how the ECU sends the ground pulses to the injectors, and testing for the pulses.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pzeOz-seIQE
Although there are different ways to test if the ECU is sending the ground pulses, if you want to use noid lights, they are usually available at local auto parts stores for around $25 and up; on Amazon, about $18 and up.
The ECU need various power (+) and ground (-) sources to function properly. If the ECU is not sending the ground, you may have to start checking various power and grounds that go in and out of the ECU.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pzeOz-seIQE
Although there are different ways to test if the ECU is sending the ground pulses, if you want to use noid lights, they are usually available at local auto parts stores for around $25 and up; on Amazon, about $18 and up.
The ECU need various power (+) and ground (-) sources to function properly. If the ECU is not sending the ground, you may have to start checking various power and grounds that go in and out of the ECU.
I verified all the power and ground inputs at the ecm according to this chart. https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?ti...da_Accord_1995
On pin A21 power output to the icm I am only getting 6.4v and it shows it should be 12v. It does the same with my other ecm as well.
On pin A21 power output to the icm I am only getting 6.4v and it shows it should be 12v. It does the same with my other ecm as well.
Your problems and conditions sounds practically the same as this guy's Civic. The Civic's ECU pin number A20, Yel/Grn wire is similar to your Accord's ECU pin number A21 which goes to the ICM. The ICM is in the distributor and you did mention you had no tach movement, the tach signal comes from the blue wire from the ICM. His fix may have been due to the distributor connection or something.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...oblem-3337810/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...oblem-3337810/
I ordered a main relay just to try since it seems they go bad all the time. My main relay looked ok and no solder joints looked cracked. I put the new one in and now I have injector pulse and the car runs. I know I checked the main relay and I was getting power to the ecm. Maybe it had a slightly high resistance internally idk. Thank you for all the help
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
phustvedt
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
2
Feb 25, 2006 04:12 PM







