70mm throttle body, or no? GSR 12.2:1 E85 build
Looking to see what might be recommended for my goals. I have the engine on a break in tune right now, freshly built 500 miles ago, I haven't touched VTEC yet. I'm about to measure cam timing, piston-valve and valve-valve specs before turning on VTEC. Just crossing T's and dotting I's.
When I get the cams where they should be, should I install the 70mm throttle body I have? I don't want to install parts just because I have them, I am looking for more response than peak HP. I've read others say that low and mid RPM engine response isn't good with a 70mm TB, and is better with a stock one. I see why this is true.
With these cams, will the stock airbox be okay? I'm using this now with a "cold air" extension I mocked up for tuning reasons, but again, have not touched VTEC. Do I need to install my short ram intake, or get a 3" type-r inlet tube (using an LS one now)?
Goals; responsive engine for road course and auto-x. I love playing with the limits of grip around corners more than straight line speed.
Specs from build thread;
Engine; 12.2:1 compression
-B18C1 block, surface decked
-Golden Eagle MNF oil squirter plugs
-Supertech 81.5 mm pistons, wrist pins and piston rings, P4-H815-P7, 252 grams
-Eagle H-beam rods, big end resized for accurate bearing fitment, 545 grams
-ARP rod bolts
-ATI harmonic balancer, 7" steel race version
-ARP crank pulley bolt
-balanced rotating assembly
-Gates timing belt
-ARP head studs
-b16 style intake manifold (S2 V1?)
-mildly ported p72 head, deshrouded valves, cc'd at 40cc
-Supertech 85 lb springs, retainers and keepers
-Supertech beehive lost motion springs
-Supertech flat faced valves
-S2P1 cams
-S2 cam gears
Transmission
-S4C with 4.9 final drive and carbon syncros and MFactory LSD
I also have a RMF narrow replica to install. Thinking about a Toda rep, but probably won't, not sure unless someone persuades me.
Any idea's? Conversation is good, lets get this going.
When I get the cams where they should be, should I install the 70mm throttle body I have? I don't want to install parts just because I have them, I am looking for more response than peak HP. I've read others say that low and mid RPM engine response isn't good with a 70mm TB, and is better with a stock one. I see why this is true.
With these cams, will the stock airbox be okay? I'm using this now with a "cold air" extension I mocked up for tuning reasons, but again, have not touched VTEC. Do I need to install my short ram intake, or get a 3" type-r inlet tube (using an LS one now)?
Goals; responsive engine for road course and auto-x. I love playing with the limits of grip around corners more than straight line speed.
Specs from build thread;
Engine; 12.2:1 compression
-B18C1 block, surface decked
-Golden Eagle MNF oil squirter plugs
-Supertech 81.5 mm pistons, wrist pins and piston rings, P4-H815-P7, 252 grams
-Eagle H-beam rods, big end resized for accurate bearing fitment, 545 grams
-ARP rod bolts
-ATI harmonic balancer, 7" steel race version
-ARP crank pulley bolt
-balanced rotating assembly
-Gates timing belt
-ARP head studs
-b16 style intake manifold (S2 V1?)
-mildly ported p72 head, deshrouded valves, cc'd at 40cc
-Supertech 85 lb springs, retainers and keepers
-Supertech beehive lost motion springs
-Supertech flat faced valves
-S2P1 cams
-S2 cam gears
Transmission
-S4C with 4.9 final drive and carbon syncros and MFactory LSD
I also have a RMF narrow replica to install. Thinking about a Toda rep, but probably won't, not sure unless someone persuades me.
Any idea's? Conversation is good, lets get this going.
Seems like a solid build.
Yes that motor is going to want to breathe, so 70mm would be good.
Knock off headers work but I'd save up for something good.
You'll definitely want a 3" intake on that motor.
Yes that motor is going to want to breathe, so 70mm would be good.
Knock off headers work but I'd save up for something good.
You'll definitely want a 3" intake on that motor.
Even without VTEC, the engine wants to rip. It's going to be fun.
What header do you have in mind? All I can really find are the replicas, and the S2 stuff.
Thanks for the input. Went ahead and got myself the Toda replica header since it was on sale.
Will be measuring all the valve clearances and setting cam centerlines this week.
One last thing I'm not sure about is what spark plugs to run with the higher compression and e-85. Just not really sure here. Any suggestions?
Will be measuring all the valve clearances and setting cam centerlines this week.
One last thing I'm not sure about is what spark plugs to run with the higher compression and e-85. Just not really sure here. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the input. Went ahead and got myself the Toda replica header since it was on sale.
Will be measuring all the valve clearances and setting cam centerlines this week.
One last thing I'm not sure about is what spark plugs to run with the higher compression and e-85. Just not really sure here. Any suggestions?
Will be measuring all the valve clearances and setting cam centerlines this week.
One last thing I'm not sure about is what spark plugs to run with the higher compression and e-85. Just not really sure here. Any suggestions?
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Thanks for the input. Went ahead and got myself the Toda replica header since it was on sale.
Will be measuring all the valve clearances and setting cam centerlines this week.
One last thing I'm not sure about is what spark plugs to run with the higher compression and e-85. Just not really sure here. Any suggestions?
Will be measuring all the valve clearances and setting cam centerlines this week.
One last thing I'm not sure about is what spark plugs to run with the higher compression and e-85. Just not really sure here. Any suggestions?
I hope so. Otherwise I'm going to hold you personally responsible.
JK. You just made my decision easier.
I'm going through with checking clearances today. What's the recommended clearances for valve-to-valve and piston-to-valve clearances? And for the future, does redline (8k vs 9k) play a role?
edit:
Going with 0.035" for minimum valve-to-valve clearance. I'm also going to stick with 0.040" for the intake valve-to-piston clearance, and 0.080" minimum exhaust valve-to-piston clearance.
It's nice having you guys respond, there is a lot of posts to go through on HT, and is very time consuming. Thank you guys again.
Last edited by jdblock; Aug 14, 2020 at 09:32 PM.
oh lol, sorry, when I said save up for a good header I meant a good header.
Advanced Street Performance, LLC - our quality is your peace of mind
https://dtrheader.com/
https://myerscompetition.bigcartel.com/
Power is made in the head, while the port and cams are important, header choice is usually a major factor in all motor cars as well, I've seen 20whp from a properly sized header on a built motor.
Advanced Street Performance, LLC - our quality is your peace of mind
https://dtrheader.com/
https://myerscompetition.bigcartel.com/
Power is made in the head, while the port and cams are important, header choice is usually a major factor in all motor cars as well, I've seen 20whp from a properly sized header on a built motor.
Not dropping $1500 on a header. This is a just a fun car being built for track days. I'd rather throw money into safety equipment, aerodynamics and track fees.
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